Exhaust torque setting

[Jarney]

Hey guys,
I put my exhaust back on and noticed there was no torque setting in the manual for any of the clamps or the nuts that go on at the top. Any ideas what to shoot for? The "standard" setting for a 12mm is 33-45 lbs/ft or something like that according to the chart in the back of the manual. Seems high? Thanks. Later.

[tmdoth]

I just went for a reasonable torque feel, like what you do for the spark plugs. If you are worried about the torque setting being too high when going with the standard setting for the 12mm bolt, I recommend hand tightening it using a normal socket wrench and then testing out the torque wrench on the bolt afterwards and backing off if it feels like you might be doing damage. Don't forget that if you are putting your exhaust back on after removal, you should be replacing the crush gaskets as well - these will be absorbing a bit of the torque when the exhaust is tightened back on. Hope this helps, if not let me know and I will help out where I can. Cheers.

[Jarney]

Thanks Tm,
yeah, I replaced the crush gaskets. Just didn't want to undertighten and wind up with leaks or overtighten and damage the threads or chrome. Later.

[tmdoth]

If anyone else has a better reply I want to hear it (mostly cuz I will be heading over to the shop to fix my own work), but I would have to lean a little on the undertighten side if anything. Obviously perfectly tightened is the best way to go, but there is some serious permanent damage that can occur if overtightened. Because the system works on a nut and stick instead of a bolt and hole method, the torque needed is a little bit less as you can snap off the threaded sticks if you are not careful. I have replace the cylinder head on one of my bikes as the previous owner broke a few of them off when he reinstalled the header bolts. You could use a bit of loctite if you are worried about the nuts vibrating loose.

And yes.... I do realize after rereading this post myself that most of the comments to follow will be dirty in nature. so be it.

[Jarney]

Cool, thanks. I think you're right - better safe than sorry, I can always tighten a little more later if there is a leak or something is coming loose. Better than the work required if the "stick breaks". Later.

[wuputt]

I just tightened till the clamp brackets started bending! I would guess 45-50 in. Lbs. Have ran it about 2000 miles and no leaks yet! It would be nice to know what they are sposed to be torqued to! You guys check other manuals for other bikes, I would be happy to use a spec. From most any I4 motor!

[zlMark]

The actual procedure they say in the manual is to tighten them evenly, warm the engine, and re-tighten if neccessary....yeah ok

I use a shorty 3/8 ratchet and snug them up, it doesn't take much torque to make those clamps bend. It's really a judgement call. The key here is to not overtighten and snap the studs!

[Jarney]

Yeah, I read that, like I'm going to put everything together, redrain the coolant and remove the radiator and all that and do it all over again - NOT!!! I did the same thing, used the stubbiest rachet I had, snugged them pretty good with the blue loctite on them, then grabbed the torque wrench and checked them all - they were all around 15 -18 lbs/ft. So I increased it to an even 20 lbs/ft, did all of them again and said good enough. We'll see if I wind up with any leaks or not after it gets good and hot a few times. Thanks guys. Later.

[tmdoth]

I recently picked up a zx900 haynes manual. I will check to see what it says tonight.

[tmdoth]

...and it says nothing about exhaust torque specs or even very much about the pipes at all... absolutely nothing. I am floored. Lotsa useful stuff about how to break down the carbs and clean them though.

[wuputt]

Anyone have a Clymer manual? They tend to have better details than any other manuals I have seen. Chris, what did you guys torque to at the shop?