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View Full Version : Adjusted the Valves....WOW!



Dowee
04-08-2009, 09:34 AM
So I spoke to Paul about for about an hour before I tackled it. Turns out I didn't have small enough gauges, but I did have an .008, Paul told me to set both the intake and exhaust valves to the .008.
All the valves were super tight, super super tight, you could barely get a .005 in most of them.
I followed Lowlife's instruction pretty close along with the GPZ's manual.

Thankfully my brother showed up who's done valves before, I was nearly completely ignorant of the whole process. We got them all set, and put everything back together.

The starter didn't even turn ONE full turn before that mother fired up and ran like a sewing machine. It was a glory to behold. :headbang:

I did notice however that when you get on it it backfires a lot when you let off it, I want to say it's running pig rich, but I'm not sure. What do you guys think?

zlMark
04-08-2009, 09:39 AM
Good job on the valves!

Backfiring is most likely caused by an exhaust leak. I wouldn't worry about it unless it sounds like a cannon, my 900 does it quite a bit and the 1000 doesn't because those 1000 carbs have a coasting enrichner to help reduce the backfiring.

You running airbox or pods? what size jets?

Bacchus
04-08-2009, 09:57 AM
how much time involved start to completion?

I probably need to do this on my 1000. when I start up my 900 she snaps to it, when I start up the 1000 she starts with out realy snaping to it, and seems to Idle a bit low and slow until she begins to warm up AND last time at the track I was running about 1\2 second slower consistantly.

Dowee
04-08-2009, 10:52 AM
Well, I've had the tank and coils off so many times I'm a pro at it now so that didn't take to long. One thing I will recommend you have before you start is a stubby flathead for the #2 and #3 exhaust valve adjustments, that's the only thing we could use to get in there. We did everything without ever doing it before in about 2 hours.

Mark, it didn't backfire before. Paul had me flip the fins upside down and pointing forward on that exhaust on the top of the right side of the valve cover, some rubber hoses was connected to it. Could that be causing the backfire? Also, when I took it off the first time to get the valve cover out I split one of those rubber hoses, could that cause it?

I am running pods, I don't know what size jets are in there but Rick asked specifically if I was going to be running pods and he said if I was he would put bigger ones in there.

zlMark
04-08-2009, 11:25 AM
Yea the reeds need to be installed correctly. I think the correct way is down. I'll be fitting some block off plates on saturday. So I'll have a look then.

These block off plates will soon be available.

Dowee
04-08-2009, 11:40 AM
Block off plates, interesting. Keep me updated on those, sounds like something we could use.

paulfun
04-08-2009, 01:13 PM
Your reed valves are now in the correct way or at least should be according to our last phone conversation about them. So if you have an air leak at the big hose on top of the valve cover that will cause an air inlet that will ignite unburnt fuel that is in the exhaust. So the next question is-
is it a backfire?
or a loud gurgleing type noise?
and are there any exhaust leaks?

paulfun
04-08-2009, 02:42 PM
this is the right way to have the reed valve in

zlMark
04-08-2009, 03:41 PM
Yep thats it paul,,,,if the hose is screwed then it like running open air suction. Block off plates would cure that :biggrin:

Fern
04-08-2009, 04:01 PM
Hey Mark,

So would installing the carbs from the 1000 be better on my 900? I have a set laying around with the boots.

Good job on the valves Dowee. I tried doing the valve adjusting a few years ago, could not get by looking at the manual. I think I need to see someone do it once, maybe a youtube video?

zlMark
04-08-2009, 04:21 PM
It would take it a step closer to acting like the ninja motor. The only difference is the smaller carbs, cams and cam timing between the two. I would expect to lose a little on the bottom and gain on the top end.

Fern
04-08-2009, 04:42 PM
Wow, that was a quick reply. Thx.

zot
04-08-2009, 04:56 PM
It was a glory to behold. :headbang:

[/quote]

Well done!

Dowee
04-09-2009, 10:18 AM
this is the right way to have the reed valve in

Yep, that's mine.

Dowee
04-09-2009, 10:23 AM
Fern, I had the same problem with the manual, it doesn't tell you all the little things that you need to do to get them done, it's also a "feel" thing, I did everything and then let my brother actually DO the valve setting itself. He has the feel for it, part of the problem is knowing the proper amount of drag with the guages so that they are all the same.
The longest part of the process was getting the locknuts back down tight without having the screw move, that really is the difficult part. Biggest piece of advice, if you don't think it's right, it's not, do it again.

Dowee
04-09-2009, 10:24 AM
Fern,

If you want step by step walkthrough on how to do it I can give you my phone number if you want. Just PM me.

Fern
04-10-2009, 08:19 PM
Dowee,

Thanks bro! When I get ready to turn the beast on, I'll need to chat with you.

At the moment, I think I found someone to finally do the mod for the 17" rear whel conversion. I need to remove my swingarm from the donor bike and send that away. I will be busy taking that apart. Yeepee!

I will post some pics later of ongoing project.

Slippery44
04-12-2009, 06:59 AM
Yea the reeds need to be installed correctly. I think the correct way is down. I'll be fitting some block off plates on saturday. So I'll have a look then.

These block off plates will soon be available.

Mark,

Any idea when the plates will be available? Put me down for a set. Let me know the price. Thanks.

zlMark
04-12-2009, 08:51 AM
They will be shipping out from me tomorrow. I need to figure package and posting before I announce them

Bobbo
04-12-2009, 11:01 AM
If your valve clerance has been too tight you HAVE to do them over again next season. I bought a ZL 1000 that seldom had been serviced and it was running poor. The valves does not close properly and you get dirt on the valve seats if the clearance is too tight. Once you get the clearance adjusted the valve start to move again, so next year I opened opened the valve cover to check, the valves was tight again.

This routine has to be followed until the valve clearances don't change. On my previous Kawasaki it took 20.000 km. Valve clearance service is VERY important!
I also meant to remember that the first ZL-900 had too soft valve seats, Kawasaki changes the alloy of the valve seata in spring/summer of 1984.

Morir
04-12-2009, 12:54 PM
So I spoke to Paul about for about an hour before I tackled it. Turns out I didn't have small enough gauges, but I did have an .008, Paul told me to set both the intake and exhaust valves to the .008.
All the valves were super tight, super super tight, you could barely get a .005 in most of them.
I followed Lowlife's instruction pretty close along with the GPZ's manual.

Thankfully my brother showed up who's done valves before, I was nearly completely ignorant of the whole process. We got them all set, and put everything back together.

The starter didn't even turn ONE full turn before that mother fired up and ran like a sewing machine. It was a glory to behold. :headbang:

I did notice however that when you get on it it backfires a lot when you let off it, I want to say it's running pig rich, but I'm not sure. What do you guys think?


RE: Backfiring; I had the same problem with my bike and I'm inclined to agree with the exhaust leak theory, and here's why: this winter at the shop, I had them do the 10,000mi valve adjust, and change the exhaust pipes(aftermarket when I bought it last year)to a set of original ZL pipes that I got off ebay over the winter. Since I picked up the bike last weekend, it's run like a top, without ONE backfire. The old pipes were obviously loose, and I made sure they installed the stock ones with the proper exhaust gaskets - no more leaks, no backfires!

Dowee
04-13-2009, 11:41 AM
RE: Backfiring; I had the same problem with my bike and I'm inclined to agree with the exhaust leak theory, and here's why: this winter at the shop, I had them do the 10,000mi valve adjust, and change the exhaust pipes(aftermarket when I bought it last year)to a set of original ZL pipes that I got off ebay over the winter. Since I picked up the bike last weekend, it's run like a top, without ONE backfire. The old pipes were obviously loose, and I made sure they installed the stock ones with the proper exhaust gaskets - no more leaks, no backfires!

Interesting. My ZL doesn't have stock pipes and it very well could be an exhaust leak.

Mark, put me down for a set of block of plates too.

Fern
04-13-2009, 01:51 PM
My brother had engine work on his ZL1000 at a speed shop a few years ago. The shop removed all the plumbing and screwed allen bolts underneath the reed holes (capped them). The reeds and covers were not put back on, though. Might be cheaper than installing block off plates? I'll see if he has any pics.

rammy1500
04-16-2009, 11:02 AM
I'm debating about checking mine again, my buddy adjusted them about 4 years ago but wonder if they are still correct. Starts right up but doesn't sound like its firing on all 4's until warmed up, about a minute or so.

Dowee
04-17-2009, 10:03 AM
I ordered Block Off Plates from Mark today, maybe that will help.