Airbox Boots

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ARCHIVE_skillzie

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ZL900 Signal Rubber

hello all,
this might be a better question for the parts wanted section, but where can one score some new rubber for ZL900 turn signals? mine are all cracked and crusty like.

thanks!!!
 
I don't believe the rubbers can be replaced seperately, I think you'll be up for whole assemblies. Mine were totally disconnected from the bike so I got a set of four from the wreckers for $10.00 each without a mark on them. They're not Eli items (ZL's have a flat back chrome section) but they're off a later model.
 
Here's a link for a source for some turn signal assy's for the ZL9's and ZL1k's. The rubber stalks and the lamp head ARE an assembly ... perhaps these might help. Available in either 2-wire or 3 wire configuration @ $18.95ea.

Click here ... http://www.oldbikebarn.com/motorcycle_parts.php?subcategory=Turn+Signals&bike=Kawasaki

Go to the bottom of that page, you'll see the listing "OBB Part #: 11-2279" ... for our ZL's.

Hope this is of some help if "new" is they way you choose to go. Perhaps someone on here knows of a cheaper source???
 
"New" or excellent used would probably be the way to go. Keep in mind, other than the rubber part, the left signals internal chrome reflectors usually rust up, due to the fact that this is where moisture sits, cuz our bikes dont have center stands!!

Both 900 & 600 are the same physically if you want OEM, but the wire color code might be different.

If you find some decent used ones, the signals are rebuildable, if you want to use the "best parts" from either the old or new replacement signal. Be careful not to damage the plastic chrome ends when removing the internal clip, and dont tighten the screws TOO tight on a 20+ year old part!! :lol:
 
Ordered new airbox boots today. i refuse to fight them old dried out*&^%$%^&*

$10.54 ea from parts depot.

I tried Beartooth Kawasaki and the special forum member pricing was $11.95 ea. Not bad for a stealer.

I will be using stage1 of my dynojet kit along with my 5 degree advancer plate. Going from a dj136 main to a dj108 :rotf:
 
Hey Mark, I am installing a Stage III dynojet kit this weekend. Do you know if it is mandatory to do the advancer plate at the same time?
 
What exactly does the advancer do? I've heard of it, but not sure what it does/how it works. What improvement does it give the bike?

Awaiting insults for being dumb... :bringiton:
 
No insults....If I understand correctly, it advances or retards the timing, with a jetkit it is recommended to advance the timing, it gives the throttle better response, that is according to Factory Pro, I don't know that it is anything necessary to do, but if you want to make the most of your modifications it seems the thing to do.
moab...
 
Carburetor boots

Do you know where you can buy the rubber intake manifold boots that connect the carburetors to the enine? Found the airbox boots but not the carburetor boots.
Thanks
 
The advancer plate controls the timing for the spark. When the bike leaves the factory the bike would be set to a safe figure of ,for instance, 10 degrees (don't know the real figure, not looked). What this means is that a spark would be created when the piston is at 10 degrees before top dead center (TDC). By advancing the ignition the spark will be created later, which means the gases would be more compressed which in turn means a bigger explosion.

The problem is that its all reliant on the quality of the fuel used. Poor quality fuel might pre detonate or 'pink' before the engine sparks if its under too much compression resulting in really rough running, lack of power, etc etc.

Most aftermarket advancers are set to 7,5, or 3 degrees with I think five being the most common. The more expensive adjustable ones allow you to move anywhere from 10 - 1.

You can make your own by slotting the existing holes in the plate. Its better if you can can actually measure the amount you would have to move it. To do that you need to know what its set to at the factory, should be in the manual. Its also important to point out that the advance curve is controlled by the CDI so there's no easy way of changing that.
 
To clarify, the engine will ping, never heard the term pink. Might be common on the other side of the pond though. Predetonation if you will, when the compressed A/F mixture will self ignite, either from the compression or other factors like carbon buildup, running lean among other things.

The advance curve is simple. When at an idle, an engine doen't need a lot of advance. There is not a lot of fuel to burn so it doesn't take long for the flame to work it's way down, just for giggles say the base timing at idle is 10 deg BTDC. As the RPM's increase, more time is needed for the flame in the cylinder to completley burn so the plug needs to fire sooner, like mayeb 40 deg BTDC. With old cars it was done with engine vacuum and weighted cams. Today it is controlled through the ECM which can advance or retard the timing to suit engine needs. If you were to plot it all out as far as how much timing is needed for every RPM point, ou would see where the term curve comes from.

CDI refers to a type of ignition which is usually employed in higher revving engine due to shorter saturation times. A capacitor will charge way faster than an inducter can.

When running the advancer plate, premium high octane fuel is a must.
 
Well after playing with the dynojet stage1 I've decided to go with stock keihin jets 1 size larger (127.5) on the main and 2 shims on the stock needles, 2 1/2 turns out on the mixture screws and my 5 degree advancer plate, runs great, power is great.

lesson learned,,save yourself some money on pods and jet kits and keep it stock but "kick it up a notch"..............BAM!
 
low-cruise same as dj stage1 but low-mid alot stronger. I will have to play with shims to see which way to go with it. 2 shims right off the bat it feels real good. Pods and stage3 had a good mid range but low-cruise and top-end sucked
 
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