ANDREW

  • Thread starter Thread starter ARCHIVE_knightkadosh
  • Start date Start date
The 1k is just a "punched out" 900.
They share almost the whole motor.
 
Well the dyno numbers from Dale Walker are higher because I dont know if there is a better person around to tune these bikes. He has sooo much experience with these bikes and making them run. He used to run a drag racing school that used 900 Eliminators as their mules. I am sure that having him around to tune one of these could up your numbers. There are certain things that you can do to gain a little more HP but that would require a little tweaking on your part. My brother told me that if I wanted to continue to race mine when I set the valves one of the things that I could do is set the valves on the tight side of the tolerances. If you are looking for more top end pull you could look at a different set of cams. The ZL series bikes used the Ninja 900 and 1000R motors with a milder profile cam. If you swapped cams with one of these you would gain some top end but give up some low and mid range torque. I am sure some one will have a different opinion but I guess this is my 2 cents worth. Hope this helps.
Joker
 
Dyno Specs

Further to Joker's comments.
You might consider the carbs off of the '85
900 Ninja too.

Because of the lower final gear drive ratio on the ZL9
I question wether you'd notice any drop in pulling power with the Ninja cams.
I don't think you'd see much more top end speed for the same reason.

Likely, you'd have to turn up the RPMs at the tree when leaving the line to keep from stalling, cause the Ninja reportedly worked well between 6500- 10500, where the ZL9 likes 5500-8500 or so.

Certainly, your 1/4 mile times would be quicker cause I expect you'd reach top speed sooner.

Does any of that make sense?
 
If drag racing is where your interest is. There are a couple of things that you should know about your bike. You do need to leave with the RPM's wicked up, but you need to slip the clutch A LOT to keep the front end on the ground. I was told before my first trip to the track that it WOULD NOT pull the front end up if I dumped the clutch at 8000 rpm. Not believing this I started off leaving about 4000 rpm slipping the clutch and as I got more used to it I could carry the front wheel about three inches off the ground for about 30 or 40 feet. and then when I would shift into second it would pull again for a split second. I run mine all the way up to 10,500 rpm and then shift just at that point. I am going to invest in a set of wheelie bars and solid struts so I can really wick the thing up and try to get my 60 foot times down and then the rest of the run should fall into place. With stock suspension and no wheelie bar I have run a best of 11.99 at 110mph. Keep in mind that I am a super novice at this yet and I am sure that others are doing better at it than I am but I am still a little afraid of standing it up on the rear tire and wearing the bike on my chest. Just go into it with your head on straight. dont get to carried away with adding more power than you already have till you have some seat time at the track.
Joker
Keep the sticky side down.
 
Good idea, and I could definitely use a financial breather anyway, not to mention, as you have stated, now start paying you’re dues with time spent in the seat. One of the things that struck me as being somewhat interesting was that when the Eliminator was rolled up into the trailer, they had to move the front wheel lock forward by quite a noticeable distance. Most of the other bikes they tested had much shorter wheelbases, and few adjustments, if any, were ever needed throughout the day, between bikes. However, there was this one guy, he had a nice aftermarket extended swing arm on his bike, and his machine pumped out a walloping 160 HP. He just started running this bike at another local track, and I had no idea that there was another ¼ mile track closer to me then the one I had originally chosen, so I may now go here instead.

http://www.maplegroveraceway.com/index.asp

I really appreciate all the help and support you guys have given me,

Brian
 
A couple of quick things, this “Giant killer”, “hooligan ride”, “rat bike”, “straight-liner”, or “lead sled”, as it has been called, absolutely hates cornering. At times, during higher speeds, when misbehaving, it feels like you’re trying to stop an entire freight train when bearing down on the brakes. Fairly quickly you realize that the drive shaft can become an effective means of braking in addition to the regular disc brakes, but at all costs, never in the corner!

Make no mistake; you definitely feel the road you’re riding on. You ride this bike, and while riding her, she begs for your constant attention to the road. The torque she delivers, and the brief amount of time she takes to deliver that torque to the rear wheel is astonishing. This makes for some extremely exhilarating riding, and blissful feelings of ecstasy, while constantly being accompanied by the sweet whispering and purring sounds of the carburetors, not to mention, the deep-throated sound of the bellowing exhaust. Ok, maybe I am a bit over the edge, but then again, as they say, “to each, his own”. :wink:

Brian
 
I am tring to set mine up to run at New England Dragway next Friday. Any advise as far as set up? I am going to run the bike dead stock before I do any mods.
 
I miss you guys too, oh, I'm getting choked up... gotta go....I miss you guys alot...But my aim is improving....haha....
moab...
 
I'm not stalking, merely offering a few pearls of wisdom. There's lots of them here in this book depository. Sure looks nice and comfy out there on that grassy knoll.......
Later,
SS
 
Book depository? Well, we have an Oliver Stone on our hands, huh???
Again.............C-R-E-E-P-Y...........Have a good day, wierdo.....lol
moab....
Oh, and ps.......Larry the Cable guy still SUCKS, he is a southern fried ASSHAT....maybe.... :D
moab...
 
If I have to tell you, then maybe that's the problem.....An actual line that my horrific ex-wife used on me....I hate that Succubus...
moab...
 
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