Carbs

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ARCHIVE_lharding

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Need a little tech help guys!

The other day a noticed an oil leak comming from aroung my shifter area.
I took a closer look and figured it was the o-ring that seals the water pump into the case. To my surprise after removing the water pump I found that the shaft seal in the rear of the water pump itself was letting oil pass by and the oil was actually comming out of the water pumps weep hole. Is replacing the water pump the only option here? It seems to be working fine and bearings feel good. Hate to have to replace it for what seems like a $2 seal. Give me some thoughts and ideas. I had even thought about soaking the seal in brake fluid to see if it would soften up or just reusing the seal as is and blocking the weep hole.

Thanks a bunch!
lharding
 
The water pump oil leak is a very common problem in the Eliminators. I wouldn't re-use the old seals as they failed once they will fail again! K&L supposedly makes a kit with all the seals we need to rebuild the water pump however I don't think anyone has successfully purchased one of these kits!

About a year ago when mine started acting up I bought a kit from my local Kawi dealer and three months went by before I finally cancelled the order. The dealer was unable to get the kit so I don't even know where to start in finding this elusive of pieces....
 
You Can Still get the Shaft Seal from Kawasaki. Make Sure You OIL it up Good Before Sliding the Pump Back On, Also get the Seal For the Hard Line, There a One Time Seal and Is Bound to Leak when You get it All Back Together. You can Also get the Rebuild Kit from K&L, Cost is $20, Check their Website For a Local Dealer And Comes with all the O Rings , Later Rocky :twisted:
 
Need a little tech help guys!

Yeah, what those guys said...
 
ok,,, I have the manual, I have a clean bench. ect ect. anything "special" I need to know befroe getting into these carbs?.... anything thats not in the book?
..........................
 
Take your time setting the float level. hold the carbs upside down at a slight angle when you measure. The angle your looking for is when the float tang is just touching the needle without compressing the spring. Also when you open the throttle you'll see the little tiny airbleeds. these affect idle and off idle operation make sure they are clear and flowing freely. When reinstalling to the carbs to the boots I use edelbrocks gasgacinch to make an airtight seal there(sparingly)Last but not least, make sure you use an inline filter! I use an all metal one from autozone, first plastic one i had couldn't take the heat. Get them syncronized when done. I would suggest the Morgan Carbtune if you plan to buy one. I wasted my money on a motion pro mercury type. Let us know the results!
 
I have a mercury stick that has been good to me, Oh also I have noticed that most if not all the cali crap is gone/missing, one hose on the right side of the tank is no there, ~looking from rear underneath~ the manual doesnt say anything about if that is needed or not, can I just "cap" that off? of run a hose someplace" is it a vent" ?.......
 
Oh yes, make sure that one is clear. The other end of it is the tiny hole by the filler neck. I strongly suggest blowing through it both ways several times, especially is someone has kremed the tank.
Later,
SS
 
Ok now what is the trick to getting the air-box back on, do I have to put it in first?..... then the carbs?......GRRRRRRRRR........
 
Yes, The softer the boots are on the airbox the easier this will be. I read somewhere about softening them up, i'll see if i can find it.
 
MEK, I dont think I will use that stuff, read some of the MSDS its not something I want around seems like bad stuff, it may work well but not for me. I think a hair dryer and a bit of heat will soften them enough.
 
I would recomend using the MEK in a WELL VENTILATED area if you decide to go that route, that stuff will turn your brain to jello. Of course, you can always make life a little easier on yourself and just go back with pods instead of the stock airbox, but you will nee to rejet the carbs to make it work.
Later,
SS
 
And I can't believe nobody has mentioned the most important thing, and that is the beer. Make sure you have plenty around for this job and another set of hands helps as well. I told my son after we put a set on earlier this year is if we go though this again, I am going to jet the carbs and put on pods.
 
Mine came off easier by removing all the fasteners for the airbox, and loosening all the clamps. Removed boots from carb to airbox first, then the carbs, and finally the airbox. Not sure the easiest way to get the airbox back in since I'm going to go back with pods. I would veture to say the airbox should go in firs, followed by the carbs. Beer would most likely help.
Later,
SS
 
I have removed my carbs a few times.

I usally loosen the 10mm bolts that hold down the airbox. You will need to remove the chromed side covers (carefull when removing these or will find out how expense they are to replace). Slide the airbox as far as you can toward the rear tire. Tighten the 10mm bolts so the airbox will stay in that position. This will give a bit of more room for the carbs to slide out.

To install, I usually wet the rubber boots with WD40. The carbs will slide right in. You will be able to get the carbs in easy to the head boots. The airbox rubber boots will need a little work as they will fold. Use a long skinny screwdriver to push the boots back out around the carbs. You can do this from starting above each carb and sliding the screwdriver down between the boot and rear side of each carb. Carefull not to prick the rubber, be gentle.

Once you have the boots on to the carbs from the airbox, you can loosen the 10mm bolts and slide the airbox as close as possible towards the front wheel. Then retighten and install the chrome side covers.

Hope this helps?

- Fern
 
Thank you,.... My bike didnt have an airbox on it, I put the carbs on. then it was like "How the f*$k is this big ass thing suppose to fit now?..... missing the chrome covers, so being carfull with them isnt an issue.....I just couldnt jump on the softening agent bandwagon. WD, or a similar product was where I was leaning.
 
I softened my boots up by boiling them for a minute or two, one at a time, in an old pyrex mearsuring cup in a microwave oven. As soon as they cooled enough to handle, I folded them and installed them from the inside of the airbox out to the carb. My hands are pretty big, but it still seemed the easiest way.
 
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