Choke

  • Thread starter Thread starter ARCHIVE_Brandon
  • Start date Start date
A

ARCHIVE_Brandon

Guest
starter clutch/ engine rebuild

Hi all, I own an 85 zl900. My pride and joy is starting to have issues with the starter clutch. Since I'm looking at tearing into this wonderful motor, my question is for anyone who knows a reputable shop who has knowledge of this engine. I have perormed all the maint. and mods, but splitting the cases and possibly a rebuild may be more than I'm willing to undergo. I'm considering not only the repair, but a big bore kit, cams, and looking into some problem areas I've read about. Such as soft valves and oiling issues? Any thoughts? Much appreciated. Thanks
 
Upgrade to a ZRX 11 or 12,it`ll probably be less $ and you`ll
wind up with a more reliable and newer tech motor.
 
My choke does not appear to work. I can crank all day long it seems and it will finally start if I hold the throttle open very slightly with out choke. Once I get it running if I put on the choke it will die. I don't understand how the choke is supposed to work. I have a spare set of carbs and have looked thru the engine side and can see the rod going back and forth. It seems to be connected to the vacume port. I don't understand how it richens the mixture for cold starting. Can someone explain to me please or have an idea.
 
Hi,
I'll do my best to explain my understanding of how they work.
Carbs are made up of three basic parts:
Air horn.
Main body.
Throttle body.
The Air horn generally houses the choke valve.
The Main body houses Venturis, Fuel bowl, Float, jets etc.
TheThrottle body houses the throttle valves.
The choke cable connects to the choke valve in the air horn, this restricts air flow when pulled on making the mixture richer.
Starting the engine after cranking for a long period of time will result in more fuel than required being supplied to the motor, holding the throttle on will increase the amount of air intake balancing out the fuel mixture.
Pulling the choke on when the engine is running will do exactly as it is supposed too: choke the air supply.
All i can suggest is pull the choke on prior to starting do not use the throttle, if the fast idle speed is set correctly you will not have to. And make sure the choke cable is connected correctly. :good luck:
 
There's been a lot of discussion about this lately, firstly if your running pods and not the stock air box and filter, your carbs will have to be re-jetted to suit. This is due to an increase in air intake making the engine run leaner. Some one else can probably recommend the best way to go as i prefer stock carbs (less hassle). Does the choke valve close? leaving only a small gap such as the thickness of a matchstick? If the gap is too big this can reduce its effectiveness and can be adjusted via the cable. The choke does not increase or decrease the amount of fuel, it merely restricts the air intake making the mixture richer by reducing the air to fuel ratio.
 
On the CVK 32's and 34's they dont have a choke. They have a enrichener. There must be a torn seal or diaprahm in one of your richener plungers. Or the passage is full of crud. Look at the exploded view in the manual.
 
:yeahthat: Thanks Mark, It's obvious i've never had to play with the carbs on my bike yet. All my experience comes from cars, and i've rebuilt plenty of them :notworthy: Just thought i'de give my opinion even if it turns out wrong.
 
Panther, I'm happy you have the enthusiasm to pitch in. We all continue to learn. I just hope I can retain it all, lol. When i first learned of the richener i was like WTF?
 
How does the enrichener work as a chocking device. Does the plunger open to provide extra fuel, close off air or what. Sorry to be so inquizitive but it might help me to know when I am working on the carbs.
 
Back
Top