clutch-85 Zl9

  • Thread starter Thread starter ARCHIVE_C-Bass
  • Start date Start date
I just bought on EBay a driveshaft, output gear and final drive...

$2800.00 worth of parts new, used for under $100.00

Picked up a front fender for 11.00 instead of 250.00 and coils (both) for 10.00 instead of 150.00 each

There is a ZL600 on EBAY for 2500 buy now but 1200 + has not met reserve price.

Find someone to sell it to instead of parting out a running bike.
 
Anything wrong with the bike other than being 20 years old? Any mods done to it.
 
Great bike. The only mods are that it has been bored out and Iroc metallic paint.
 
I heard something ratteling under the right side engine cover. I removed the cover to find the aluminum housing where the six allen bolts go through has been hitting something and there are shavings everywhere. If I knew how to post a pic here I could show what I am talking about. there doesn't seem to be any interference with the cover. Ideas?
 
I haven't got into that side of the bike yet But there are a few that has had problems with the chain/tensioner on that side. Give this post a few days to see if anyone picks up on it.

Need the .pdf manuals?
 
Crankshaft-Transmission8-15.jpg

Crankshaft-Transmission8-16.jpg

Crankshaft-Transmission8-17.jpg
 
I have the kawasaki repair manuals. It doesn't appear that the chain or tensioner is the problem. Is there any way the clutch pack can extend outward towards the case? I can't tell what has contacted the clutch pack.All of the required parts seem to be intact and in good shape (i.e. chain tensioner).maybe later I will post a pic in my gallery for inspection.
 
The only way that the clutch basket can move outwards toward the casing is if the centre nut (behind the clutch plates, onto the main shaft) has come loose.
In my experience that nut is so bloody tight (no.....I mean tighter than that) that it would be extremely unlikely for it to come loose, unless some previous owner has had it to bits and not reinstalled it correctly.

If you take the 6 bolts out that hold the clutch together, you should be able to see.
Make sure you use a torque wrench when you reinstall the 6 bolts as they are sooo easy to shear off.

KK
 
I would guess that you had one of the "stars" break off of the spring and start tumbling, causing the noise and damage that you see. When I replaced my clutch there were two of these "stars" laying in the casing. I remember a thread on KERA site where this was fairly common for these to bust off. If you look at page 5-6 in the service man the bottom left pic shows it as item "1".

Good luck!
 
Yep, would have to aggree. I've just added a pic of the offending item in my gallery. I never found the broken part. I assume it must have been ground to dust :pale: but the motor ran OK with one 'leg' broken and to be honest I never noticed any difference when I replaced it.

KK
 
KERA? Any special procedure I should know about before I go removing the six outside bolts to look at the spring (i.e. is it going to fly off like a rocket when I get the last bolt out). thanks
 
elimafreak said:
KERA? Any special procedure I should know about before I go removing the six outside bolts to look at the spring (i.e. is it going to fly off like a rocket when I get the last bolt out). thanks
Click to expand...
No.....No drama's the springs just gradually release as you undo the bolts. As I said be careful when you put them back in as they are very easy to shear off.

KERA = Kawasaki Eliminator Riders Association http://www.eliminator-us.org/

KK
 
The only "drama" is gonna be the look on your face when you are trying to break that damn center nut KK was talking about loose!
Are you planning to install new plates? If not, make sure you put them back in the same exact order or their life will be greatly shortened. I would change em out rather than chance it.
 
wuputt said:
The only "drama" is gonna be the look on your face when you are trying to break that damn center nut KK was talking about loose!
Are you planning to install new plates? If not, make sure you put them back in the same exact order or their life will be greatly shortened. I would change em out rather than chance it.
Click to expand...

Shouldn't need to disturb the clutch basket so he should be OK.

KK
 
You are not going to believe what you are about to see. Please go to my photo album and look at the clutch friction plate pics and help me with some questions.

1. What do you do when your clutch starts slipping.
Answer. Simple, find an old used disk, cut the tabs off and stack it on top of all the rest and WHAMO YOUR CLUTCH HAS BEEN RESTORED TO FACTORY SPECS.

Okay time for the real questions. Can someone tell me in thousanths what the thickness of the friction plates should be. I can't figure out how to convert metric over and only have a standard caliper measuring in thousanths of an inch.

The picture with the two disks shows one with straight veins and one with curved veins (for lack of a better word) which one is correct.

And finally can you guys give me a couple of links to buy parts. I went to the dealer today and those guys were juat a bunch of ass holes. I kept asking the parts guy questions and he continued to respond " I don't know I'm just a parts guy" I was trying to find out about the Concourse tensioner an he treated me like an idiot. After about the hundreth time of him telling me " I'm just a parts guy" I finally looked at him and ask if new what day it was since he was only a parts guy and walked out.

Oh yea, one last thing, HEEEEEEEEEEEEELP :help:
 
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