Clutch problem??

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ARCHIVE_eliuk

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coolent leak problem

hi all,
been having a problem with my 750
i've replaced the two small O rings that go to the cylinder and cured that leak, had look at the water pump and that seems in fair condition and the fins spin if i turn the engine over.
However i still have a leak behind the water pump, the oil ring behind the water pump looks knackered, does this O ring just seal the oil or does it seal water as well as i can't see where water would come from behind the water pump, i've checked the oil and it seems the water has NOT got into the oil. any pointers anyone please?
thanks
Keith
 
Sounds to me like the mechanical seal inside the pump is bad. When this fails, coolant will leak from the weep hole on the pump housing. I had this problem and tried to find just the mechanical seal but could not locate one. K&L sells a pump reseal kit that DOES NOT contain the mechanical seal. I ended up buying a new pump, these can sell for $120 - $180, depending on where you purchase it. If anyone could find a source for the "mechanical seal" we all could benefit from this. Long story short, I bought a water pump.
Hope this helps
Bill4
 
Refer also:

http://www.eliminator-us.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=3645&highlight=#3645

For water to leak into the engine the pump would have to have a faulty water seal (behind the impellor spring in the pump Taurus) and a git seal dislodged or leaking on the drive shaft housing (this happened to mine twice, second time I replace the seal $14.00). The weep hole in the shaft housing should give a clear indication of what is leaking and from where. Assuming the hole is not blocked, if there is no water or oil coming from the hole then your pump’s shaft seals are both in good order (i.e. not leaking water or oil). The ‘O’ ring seal on the outside of the housing only prevents oil from leaking from the transmission housing/engine, it has nothing to do with the coolant system.

Last time I had the pump out I was faced with having to buy a new pump so I experimented with the old. As the oil leaking though the git seal had washed out all of the grease from the two ‘sealed’ ball bearings, I popped off the bearing seal plates, cleaned out the races, repacked them (left the plates off) and refitted the new seal. This time the seal was a tight fit in it’s housing so I was sure it would slip out of the housing again. It hasn’t missed a beat since.

Of course if I post anything here and later find I have problems I will post a report so you all are aware of my successes and failures. I wish all the luck…
 
thanks for the replies,
i think i,m okay on the oil side of things, i think this "weep" hole must be
where my waters coming out, is the water pump rebuildable so icould get at the offending seal and replace or is it likely i am looking at a new pump?
thx
 
The shaft (with the impellor attached) will press out of the inner and outer bearings (on either side of the weep hole). Around the shaft and immediately behind the impellor is a hard friction seal (a small flat surface sealing against the metal of the impellor rear face). This friction seal is pushed against the impellor by a fairly hefty spring. This spring is supported at the opposite end by a stationary seal plate which is pressed into the pump housing. The friction seal’s opposite end slides over two moulded keyways on the plate to stop the seal from spinning. Be careful if you remove this pressed in plate because you risk distorting it thereby making it difficult to refit/reseal. However because the seal can’t be purchased independently, unless you get a good one from another busted pump, you might as well try to fix what ever is most obvious once it is all disassembled.

Anyway, apart from removing the impellor from the shaft (which is not necessary), I can say now with some authority that the whole pump assembly is rebuildable (even if we can't source new breakdown parts independently). I refitted my totally disassembled pump, cleaned and repacked both bearings, checked the impellors friction seal, refitted the pressed-in plate, replaced the git seal with a new item ($14.00), then refitted the pump and have not had a problem in the last 613km since 05Jun05.

If anyone can tell me how to insert a picture in these replies I may be able to make a drawing which will explain the pumps construction a little easier for anyone interested to know (I should have taken pics while I had it all disassembled, bugger!!!). Other wise, send me your e-mail address and I’ll send a drawing to you.
 
Hi guys ...

My beast has recently developed what appears to be a clutch problem.
Just every now and then, for no apparent reason .. either upshifting from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th .. or down from either .. it's like the clutch "hangs" and doesn't re-engage when I let the lever out.

It's like I've hit a false neutral, but the gear has definitely clicked through, but the clutch hangs. I pull the clutch lever in and out a coupla times and it rights itself. Damned scary when playing in the twisties and downshifting for a corner only to end up in what feels like "angel-gear" with no engine braking.

I've seen references to oil or grades of oil affecting shifting etc, could it be that or have I got some broken clutch springs?? The clutch never seems to slip as such, I can take off hard and it seems to hook up fine with no slippage?? Has got me puzzled!!

Cheers,
Ross
 
Have you tried flushing the clutch fluid, sometimes the pistons in the master cylinder or slave cylinder can catch or jam because of build of sludge and or rust in the lines. I would think that broken springs would cause the problem to be there all the time. Might be worth changing to a lower viscosity oil too.
 
yea what panther said :yeahthat: I flushed mine just today made all the difference in the world. I would let out the clutch lever and it was like it didn't want to return all the way out. Flushed my brake fluid as well and now have better brakes. my brake and clutch fluid was almost a rust brown color. :cheers:
 
Thanks guys .. will dump the clutch juice and refill it and give it a good bleed through and see if that helps. She's about due for an oil and filter change so will do that as well. Hopefully one or other will sort the clutch hanging problem.

Cheers,
Ross
 
Yeah, same thing happened to my clutch a while ago, it seemed to hang when I was taking off and sometimes I was getting a false neutral between gear changes, but only if I was changing gear sorta slowly.

I initially thought it may have been the clutch plates sticking, so I gave it a flush out with Motul Engine Clean

ENGINE_CLEAN_MOTO.jpg


and a complete oil service, with Motul 4T 3000 20W/50 Mineral Oil

3000_4T_20W50.jpg


and then I changed the clutch fluid to Motul Dot 5.1

dot51.gif


a silicon based, brake fluid and bobs your uncle, after a couple of rides, the problem is gone.

Mick.
 
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