Cooling fan running for no reason.

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ARCHIVE_markzl

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cheers
Markzl
 
The last time Ethan/ElimiBoss posted was .. Wed Dec 20, 2006 12:02 am ... nearly 4 months ago now.

Sad to say it looks like things ain't going to improve here in a hurry .. :roll: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
Lots of good advice here, would be nice to try to save it.
 
rammy1500 said:
Lots of good advice here, would be nice to try to save it.

Absolutely agree!! I've PM'ed Ethan offering to take up duty as a moderator here to see if we can stop or at least slow the "spammers" ..

I notice there are no "external moderators", only "ElimiBoss" himself.

Fingers crossed we can keep this place going .. between here and ZLOA we have a good crew and great resources for info.
 
Ok, the cooling fan will start running for no reason. The bike can be parked and not even started that day it it turns itself on. So, I either have a wiring problem, a bad fan switch (I doubt) or a bad sensor. And of course it could be something else.

I can't seem to find a part number for a sensor. I thought there should be an upper and lower sensor's for that. Would the Body, Thermostat, LWR (561712-001) and the Body, Thermostat, Upp (561712-001) be the parts I might need?

At least the bike doesn't over heat but I don't want to have to disconnect the fan all the time.
 
I think the sensor that runs the fan is in the t-stat housing, mine was disconnected when I took my tank off, but I think it is that sensor.
moab...
 
rbonner,

The 97c fan switch/sensor is in the bottom, left hand side of the radiator itself and it is active only when the bike is switched off (unless you've done a mod, like me), but when the key is turned on it, the relay switches over to the 110c fan switch/sensor on the engine side of the thermostat in the housing.

I agree with what KK wrote though, I'd say it's either the fan change-over relay giving you the trouble with a bad earth/connection, or a bad earth/connection on the 97c fan switch/sensor electrical connection tab, which could mimic a higher resistance when it decides to short out, therefore activating the fan whenever it likes, thats my gut feeling, but a closer examination may prove me wrong.

The Kawasaki OEM Part numbers for the switches are as follows;

Fan Switch 110c #27010-1188
Fan Switch 97c #27010-1180

Both were still available from kawasaki, the last time I asked, which was a 6 months ago, in Aust, but they aren't cheap (~$80 AUD).

Mick.
 
Thanks guys. I will start by checking the relay and fan switch. Hopefully, its easy to figure out.
 
rbonner,

I'd start looking for a bared section of wire in the outer plastic coated insulation anywhere along the length of the wire, but mainly in the electrical loom under the tank where it meets up with the relay, then work your way down to either of the two sensor/switches.

Remember, these sensor/switches are negative/ground activated, you might have a bared wire shorting on the frame, the bared wire could have, over time rubbed the paint off the frame in that particular region, therefore exposing the metal underneath, just enough to get a reasonable enough contact to short out and complete the circuit.

From memory, the wire colours are solid yellow for the 97c sensor/switch and white with a green stripe for the 110c sensor/switch (one wire per sensor/switch only).

An easy way to check without pulling apart the loom, is to disconnect the wire from the 97c sensor/switch and where it connects to the relay, the wire should theoretically now be electrically inert. Using a test light/probe connect the aligator clip to positive on the battery and touch either end of the wire on the connectors (after making sure the opposite end you are testing is adequately insulated first), if the test light/probe lights up, you've got a short, then you'll have to look to find the short, but if it doesn't light up, you haven't.

Repeat the same procedure with the 110c sensor/switch wire, if either one doesn't light up, your wiring is ok, it's then time to benchtest the relay or benchtest the resistance of the individual sensors themselves, by the workshop manual's, acceptable parameter COLD ohm ratings with a multimeter (set on 200 ohms or the "Omega" symbol) if you get 0.00 on the multimeter, the sensor/switch being tested has gone closed circuit and it is unserviceable (dead) if the multimeter says 1, it is has gone open circuit and that means it's unserviceable (dead) too.

If on the other hand, you get some numbers appear on the multimeter, match them against the ohm ratings in the manual, this number is the sensors resistance and if the numbers are within the acceptable range stated in the manual, the sensor/switch is working within the accepted functional parameters.

Mick.
 
Cooling fan stays on!

Last Thursday I rode the ZL9 to a conference. At end of day my battery was dead. Every tried to get a jump from a Security Conference? Old battery.... right. Got a new one.

Today I had to run home to fix a hot water heater (Thermal Coupler). Instead of taking the truck back down town I jumped on the ZL9 with my new battery. Drive like hell.

When I parked the cooling fan came on. "Mmmmm. Not that hot outside." I made myself presents at work known then returned to the garage where you could hear those fans still blowing away. I disconnected the battery so I can have a little juice to get home.


Sooo my ZL technical friends.... Bad sensor or short? What do you think?
 
I had the same problem.
Tested by taking the relay from my 85 zl and switching with the 86zl. Worked fine for about 1 week before I switched backthe relays. The problem reapeared as soon as I switched the relays back.

Yesterday i won a new set of relays on e-bay hope they work out and fix the problem.
 
Paul.... Are these the Relay part numers?
(See rbonner above)

Fan Switch 110c #27010-1188
Fan Switch 97c #27010-1180


pm me what you paid on evilBay....
 
Cooling Fan Relays for the zl900:

27002-1054
27002-1055

Shows that it takes 2 relays..Let me grab another beer and see if I can see which one you need :biggrin:
 
Ok.. my beer says to refer to this thread
http://www.zl-oa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6246

Which says nothing about the fan being stuck on! Pull the relays out and check for continuity. The 5-pin "fan switch relay" if bad, in your case, would show continious between pins 1-3 refer to pg 16-31 of the B.M. If so replace it.

Now the 4 pin "fan relay" if bad, in your case would show continious between pins 3-4 as shown on pg 16-38 of the B.M.

I hope this helps bro!
 
may you need contacts cleaning?
on my first ZL900 when i disassembly thermostat i find dust inside and ends of thermoswitches were with white corrosion
 
I finally found the short after chasing the problem for close to a year and a half!!!
:hello2:
The yellow wire from the wiring harnes was shorting out due to a crimp.

The mystery cooling fan problem would be intermediate. I have replaced all the relays, switches, sensors, and everything else that I could think of with no joy. I got use to just unplugging the fans when I stopped. Then for a long time the issue stopped. Mmmmm. Last Friday I took her down for a good grim washing. When I got home I was wipping her down and then I heard an electrical arc with the fans jumping on and off. While the fans were on and started tearing the radiator apart. Once I got down to bear frame I could see that nasty little yellow wire shorting out.
 
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