DAFT QUESTION,BUT I`LL RISK LOOKING STUPID

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

help ign problem

I think I have an ignition problem. Under hard acceleration it will cut out, I'll see the tach peg all the way to zero. If I stay on it it will not come back on fully, but if I let off and cruise it's ok. Any suggestions where to begin?

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

Sounds to me like a connector is making and breaking with the movement of the bike. There are a couple of places (multi pin connectors) to check,
1) 8 pin connector to fusebox
2) 9 pin connector which is up under the tank at the front right hand side (under the plastic frame cover) Check this one LAST (saves taking the tank off if its one of the others)
3) 4 pin connector in the headlamp.
4) 10 pin connector to the igniter (black box under the seat)
5) Pick up coils connector (which on my bike runs down the side of the frame behind the left hand side panel)

All of the above are linked with the ignition coils etc. but No. 5 is my favoured guess as its happened to me, also the tach gets its signal from the pickup coils.

Disconnect them and look inside at the pins, they could be loose or corroded.

Hope this helps

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Thanks KK for the reply. all connections look good. i'm beginning to think component, like the igniter. gonna try to rig up something to test it and the pickups while i'm running down the road.

more suggestions are welcome

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

checked resistance on the ignitor according to my gpz 900 manual and the only pin getting any reading other than infinite is the #10 with some of the other pins. Without going into detailed readings this isn't even close to what the specs are. Any one have the specs and a known good ignitor to compare to?

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

Not a good start that...................There's only 9 pins on mine

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

lol, right. manual shows the blank spot as the #6 pin

goin for a ride hopefully whatever the problem is will completely take a **** so i can get it figured out for sure. damn igniter is expensive!

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

Right

I've had a look at the manual and sorted the pins out

Having had a quick run round the pins with my multimeter I can tell you that the manual is utter pish

The readings I've got from the one that's running my bike

don't correspond to the book at all

If you want I'll measure exactly what I'm getting but it may take some time (and typing). Cross referencing each pin with each pin will take a while.

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

By the way
















Don't tell my bike that its igniter is faulty

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

if you would that would be great, take your time.

 

[ARCHIVE_Shlim1]

Just an FYI on the whole igniter thing...

I had gone through 3 of them, thinking the original one was bad, due to the specs in the manual. Turns out (as you have found already), the specs for the ignitors in the manual Suck A**!! The only answer I got from a dealer, was to replace the ignitor with a new one (Yes, BIG $$$), and see if the problem persists. Well, tested with a known good igniter (from another bike), and the problem was still there. Had to look elsewhere.

Turns out, the plug wires, at the coil end, were a little loose, and terribly worn! Took them off, cut off about 1/4"-1/2" to give it a tight fit again , and all my problems dissappeared!!

Good Luck with the repair, and don't forget to post your results!

 

[ARCHIVE_Michael121]

Hey Shlim1 - GO and get yourself some ACCEL #3008 7mm wire it is solid copper wires in a strand.

Put some on with the resister caps and she runs better. No fluctuating idle and starts quick. the ends are straight down they are yellow but they work.

Seems to help in overall performance than dealing with 19 year old wires or sending to Kaw for 150.00 per coil to get the wires.

They were 21.00 for a box of 8 so I have spares. At Advance Auto Parts.

Just try to save the rubber O-Rings or get a set from a car parts store.

 

[ARCHIVE_Shlim1]

Ended up getting some Dyna wires, back when I had the issue, just havent had time to install them. Maybe this upcoming winter's project........

 

[ARCHIVE_Michael121]

It took 1 hour start to finish including replacing the coils.

Take the time it makes a difference

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

Hey Mark

If you pm me your email address, I'll send you the info.

I have done the igniter that is running my bike and also the spare igniter that I have for it. If I get time (just for curiosity) I'll do the one on my GTR1000 (concours).

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Still searching for a solution. I did trim the plug wires and noticed it helped but did not cure the problem. I dont see how secondary spark would effect the tach? or i could be wrong,lol too worn out from the weekend to think straight.

Next step. Find a fluke meter and try the resistance test on the igniter again. Check voltage drop across the ignition + side and - side. Also considering putting on new plug wires the accel listed above. Do you use the boots on the wires or the original resistors?

 

[ARCHIVE_Michael121]

New NGK plugs left on the resistors. Still gotta trim them as they are about 8 inches longer than needed. But it was running great.

Just need to adjust my choke cable but other than that. Find yourself some rubber O-Rings. If the orig's are dry and splitting. At pep boys they have some plug wire seperators with rubber O-Rings for a few bucks diff colors but they work.

Since Kaw does not sell the wires wihtout the Coils at 150.00+ bucks under 25 is cheaper for wires.

As I said I found them at Advanced Auto Parts. You can also probably get them online or just order them if they don't have them in stock. Once you trim them to length you have 2 sets as the box is for an 8 Cyl. They plugged right into the coils and hold nice and tight.

The Boots are straight the only issue might be water if you ride in the rain but you can also find some ribber bushings to fet into the socket if you look.

You can also take the tank rubber on the mounts if they are shot and use heater hose as the rubber bushings it works.

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

Don't know if you've got this sorted yet but check this out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985...ewItemQQcategoryZ35594QQitemZ4565949083QQrdZ1

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Thanks

i will post the solution when i get it figured out

 

[ARCHIVE_fastfatcow]

i had a similar problem last year and it took forever to figure out. eventually it crapped out bad enough to find [with a lab scope] that i had a broken wire at one of the pickup coils at the coil itself age had taken its toll. easy to find just poke and pull [lightly] on the wires to make sure their still tight. if your not sure this is the pickups at the ign. rotor.

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Thanks, I'll check it out. I have some improvements with nipping the ends of the plug wires off. So i'm going to replace the wires, boots and valve cover gaskets (leaking), timing chain, guides, tensioner, exhaust gaskets, adjust valves.

Probably wait for winter, it's not that bad of problem now as it was. Now it's sporadically dropping a cylinder around 7-8k rpm.

Plan on doing a jet kit w/pods when it's all fixed.

I want to make the pipes louder. Anyone ever put pipes in place of the pre-chamber? I have to keep the stock mufflers they look too damn good.