decals and designs(help wanted)

[ARCHIVE_Rossco1]

Gearchange Lever Pivot info required

Hi guys ..
I'm swapping the motor out of my "spare" bike into my "daily ride".
I knew the gearchange lever pivot on the "spare" had lost its E-clip and washer etc and the gear lever was just "floating" on it's pivot.
Turns out the pivot itself is badly worn and gouged out where the lever has been rotating on it. I'll swap the one off my motor to get me outta trouble but would like to get another one so both motors have good ones fitted.

I've checked the parts diagrams at Kawasaki and I haven't been able to find a picture or part number for this piece at all.

Does anyone know if this part is available, what other bikes/models use the same part and/or it's part number??

I did a quick sketch of the bit I want and layered it onto Kawas part diagram .... see here ...

http://people.aapt.net.au/~ralaw/GCMech.jpg

Any info would be appreciated ... thanks

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

If memory serves (and it usually doesn't) (and there will be someone along shortly to put me right ) . The pivot pin is part of the casing it is attached to. I'm surprised that the pin is worn and not the brass insert in the lever, the idea being that the brass should wear first and not the pin therefore you should never need a new one!!!!!!!!!

I thought mine had high mileage at nearly 70k but yours must have some intergalactic mileage to have worn the pin away

Have another check on Kawasaki's site and look at the casings instead. (although I could be wrong)

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_Rossco1]

Hiya KK .. thanks for your quick reply ... yep my "spare" bike has also done just on 70k miles too.
This pivot pin actually screws out of the lower engine casing .. rather than being integral with the casing, it's got a 14mm thread about 18mm in length.
Given what it is, I can see there's a chance the pin could bend or snap off at the "hex" if the bike was "laid down" and the gear lever bent etc. That's also why I was thinking it may be a part one could buy.
I agree with you regarding the brass/bronze bush inside the gear lever being designed to wear instead of the pin etc. It appears the bush was worn away long ago .. there's the barest remnants of it still inside the gear lever. As a result, the pin is undercut alongside the circlip groove on top and inside/underneath, up against the "hex". So even if I put another "bush" in the lever it's still not going to be a good running fit on the pin.
I checked the parts diagrams again and there's no sign of it anywhere ... it looks very similar to the "Return Spring Bolt" p/n 92001-1401 on the "Gear Change Mechanism" parts diagram .. only this pin has a circlip groove in it.
I guess if I have no luck procuring one I'll have to machine one up ..*sigh*. I might try another Kawa dealer, my "local" guy is not the most helpful .. he'd prefer to sell me a new bike than be bothered with looking for "obscure" parts for a nigh-on 20 year old bike. Really I just wondered if anyone knew of a part number for this thing is all.
Thanks anyways ...

 

[ARCHIVE_Rossco1]

Okay . stop lookin'!!!!!!!! Silly me ... the lower crankcase diagram has "refer to gear change mechanism" on it in the area I was looking at for this pin. Then when looking at the gear change mechanism" the pin isn't there either ...
It shows up on the "Front bevel Gear" diagram ... sigh ... sowwy about that!!!

So now I have a part number .. woohoo .. it's 92004-1109 -- STUD x 1

Doh!! I need more sleep methinks .. I've been going flatout to get the bike back on the road so have been "burning the midnight oil" and not getting enough sleep .. my humblest apologies ..

Thanks again for your help/comments ..

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

No problem ...................We've ALL learned something there. I may need it myself in the near future with similar mileage on mine. Glad you posted the solution to the problem

Given what it is, I can see there's a chance the pin could bend or snap off at the "hex" if the bike was "laid down" and the gear lever bent etc. That's also why I was thinking it may be a part one could buy

Obviously not the case here but just because it may get broken easily doesn't always mean you can buy it seperately. How else is Mr Kawasaki supposed to make a profit??

Good luck with the motor swap.

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

If memory serves (and it usually doesn't)

What did I tell you
KK

 

[ARCHIVE_TheELIMINUTTER]

Hey KK , I have a Complet Lever Assembly, Lever is Bent but Everything else looks OK, Working out of Town a LOT but If you need it Let Me know, Dont know if my Email is Working so just Post on here, Later Rocky

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

Thanks Rocky but mine is OK at the moment. Sounds like Ross could maybe do with it though.

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_furchin]

part number cross reference

Rossco1, Checked the cross reference manual for you to see what other bikes may be of use for you. I came up with the following using the part number that you supplied.
Part number 92004-1109
Kawasaki Concours years 1986 to 2000
SL1000
ZL900
ZN700 LTD 1984 & 1985
Hope this helps you in some way.

Furchin

 

[ARCHIVE_TheELIMINUTTER]

Hey Roosco, I Presume the Pivot is part of the Engine Block????, I have everything Except that. Later Rocky

 

[sjdevil]

right, so i'm just about ready to paint, and am thinking about painting a design or racing stripes-where in the process do i do this and what can i use to mask? my plan is to mask off with standard painter's tape and paint the design after the top coat dries but before the clear goes on-is this right? do i need to re-prime the areas that will get different colors? should i tape off the primer where the design will go and not top coat with the main color? appreciate the help as always.
chris

 

[zl900_moab]

I would guess just scuff the whole thing so the paint and tape stick well, then paint your stripes and then glosscoat over it all...I think...
moab...

 

[Stormy]

Hi Chris,

If you are going to do racing stripes or similar, I'd suggest getting an air brush kit, that way you eliminate the risk of too much over-spray, (no need to pre-sand or re-apply any primer, if it's going over fresh, dry and hardened paint) and you can lay the colour coats down as thinly as you need therefore minimising any edge lip, plus minimising the risk of pulling any colour coat paint off with the paper tape when you are finished, but using an air brush really depends on how steady your hand is. You use a pre-made, self-adhesive backed, stencil to give a clean, sharp edge definition, you can even hold it the stencil free hand if you are good enough (you remove it before the paint drys, so you don't get a edge lip), you don't have to apply as many coats either, just enough for the colour to be solid without seeing any of the colour beneath, through the paint. It's difficult to get a normal spray gun to spray a thin, light coat, whereas an air brush is designed for that specific purpose.

Even a good quality paper masking tape will allow the paint to bleed a little bit under the tape, as the surface tension of the paint is drawn to the edge, and it will also leave a pronounced lip on the edge of the stripe, so in a cross-section, the edges are thickest and the middle of the stripe is thinnest, sorta like a "U" shape, if you looked at in a cross-section. You can lightly sand the edges down if you are good enough, but if you do, you may lose some of the edge definition.

The alternative is to use a "sticker" type, self adhesive pinstripe / decal, the thinnest you can get, apply where you want it, (again no need to pre-sand or clean the surface if it's going over fresh paint, just pop it straight on, as long as the paint surface is thoroughly dry and hardened, for if you need to re-adjust the position of the pinstripe / decal and need to lift it off again, you don't take any paint layers below with it), then start applying clear coats with a normal spray gun, (not too thick as the thinners in the paint before evaporating may dissolve the adhesive or the plastic of the pinstripe / decal) over the top of the pinstripe / decal and letting each coat dry properly (you will get the same surface tension lip on the edge of the pinstripe / decal, just in reverse, as explained before) before applying the next coat, once you've got an minimum adequate thickness of clear coat, (you are supposed to be sanding the clear coat, not the pinstripe / decal, if you do, stop apply more clear coats and then sand, you don't want to touch the pinstripe / decal underneath, at all) lightly sand till the clear coat lip edges start to become smooth to the touch and in the reflection.

Once you are happy with the smoothness of the edges, start to spray each clear coat to the tape / decal area first, then widen the spray to include the whole tank, until you get a smooth, blended surface over the pinstripe / decal and the edges blended in, to check look in it's side-line reflection. Let thoroughly dry and harden overnight to allow for shrinkage, then see if the shrinkage has brought out the edge lip again, if so, go through the process all over again until it's right. If you don't do this, the clear coat's surface reflection will deform over pinstripe / decal, it will look like **** when it's finished, it's also pretty difficult to sand it out smooth, you want a nice even surface with no bumps over the pinstripe / decal in side line reflection.

Depending on how many clear coats you put on, will depend how much you've got to play with when it comes time to lightly buff a mirror shine to it when it's all finished.

Sorry for the long explanation, but I'm trying to explain, step by step, the process for doing this, as it's probably the one critical part of spray painting that is fraught with failures. If you know how to do it properly, it looks excellent, if not, it's not worth doing at all, as the results are shocking.

If you were in Aust., I'd do it for you or show you how to at least.

I hope this helps.

Mick.

 

[sjdevil]

once again mick you are the man. wish i could offer some help in return, but i'm pretty new to workin on bikes. i have a construction company and i've been building custom homes and such for 15 years if you need any help or advice in that department. same to all here, even though its off topic.

 

[Stormy]

No worries, chris, glad to help out, if I can.

...btw, you haven't got a spare job floating around there have ya?

 

[sjdevil]

always looking for help...the commute from australia might get to you after a while though

 

[Stormy]

I'd say...