engine swap

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ARCHIVE_knightkadosh

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Test and tune at the Drag strip…

Take into account, this was my very 1st time out and this is what I did at the drag strip with my slightly modified ZL900. I ran a 12.407 seconds @ 106.40 MPH the very 1st time out, and a 12.312 seconds @ 107.29 MPH after my 2nd run. During my first try perhaps I was a little slow coming off the line, and during the second run, my rear tire spun several times before gripping the track. I’m hoping to be able to bring these times down some, if at all possible. Unfortunately, the racing season is now officially closed for the year at this local track. I am hoping that better starting technique should yield better results next time. I’ll share more about this later, finer details regarding the competitors bikes, just as a reference of sorts, and 1 of them was a 1997 V-Max… :P

Brian :mrgreen:
 
Congratulations on your first 2 runs. I bought my 900 from a girl i work with who bought it with plans to turn it into a dragbike, but then decided on a Suzuki instead. By the way, she was local track champion this year. I've got her time tickets for a few runs she made on it, unmodified, and i'll try to find them so you can use them as a benchmark.

Last weekend was absolutely beautiful weather here in central VA and i took my bike for a long ride on the back roads. On the way back, i took I-64 for the last hour and was cruising comfortably at around 85 mph when i saw about 8 or 10 Corvettes gaining on me. Not to be outdone, i bore down a bit on the throttle and looked in the mirror -- still there. Bore down a little more until i began to pull away. When i looked down, i was doing 110. Whoa! I backed off, and they passed me. But then i got to thinking...Hey, that wasn't so bad. So i leaned forward and rolled on the throttle until i got to 120. Smoooooth ride, and lots of throttle left too. More throttle than guts, though, so i backed it back down to 85 and just smiled. Never had been a real speed demon before, but now i'm hooked. That ride is all i've been thinking about all week.
 
Thanks joealso, I would really appreciate that, as base lines are very useful for having a stock reference point.

It was during the second run that the 1997 V-Max managed a small ¼ mile victory over me, and that was only by .2916 of a second. I launched at about 6500 rpm, and moaned as I felt the rear tire turn several times at the starting line before finally gripping the track, I believe that cost me some very precious time, and I simply could not make that back as we sped down the track. He was also running “Holeshot Slip-ons”, and was re-jetted. I talked with him after the race for a bit, he said that he races almost every Friday night during the summer, he invited me to come over to his staging area so that we can pair up and run together, as the newer bikes tend to be lighter and quicker, so it looks as if I have a “grudge racing” partner for next year, the good part was he invited me to share in using his cooking grill, which he always brings to the track throughout the summer…who could ask for more. :P

The first run was against a 2000 Yamaha 650R, I red lighted by leaving the line .007 of a second too soon. He pulled ahead almost immediately anyway, and stayed there down the entire track, he finished by .976 of a second ahead of me. :roll:

As far as a bracket-racing bike, the ZL is definitely running consistently, and that is more then I can say for its rider, however, I would like to eke a little more power out of the ZL900, as that would be adding a greater comfort zone, with regards to grudge racing only.

Better luck next time…perhaps using some flat side carburetors with accelerator pumps, maybe??? :mrgreen:

I wonder if this guy is still using and built off the 1986 Ninja 900 block as his power plant :?:

Maple Grove Raceway is now closed, but I see that this other local track, Cecil County Dragway, is open through December 4th this year, it’s a little further for me to travel, but who cares??? :wink:

Brian 8)
 
There’s a couple of other little things I would like to share, regarding the burn out box and the quick tire chop required for cleaning the rubber off the tire before pre-staging and staging. I’ll go into detail later), as they say, “**** happens” :roll: . Starting with this one little unassociated fact first though, while sitting way back in line waiting for my 12 seconds of pure joy to arrive, I saw a couple of snowmobiles get in line with the bikes. In my ignorance I started laughing and giggling like a misbehaved school boy, until the guy on the V-Max flipped up his visor and asked me what was so funny, so I told him, and he set me straight right away, and I quote, “don’t even try them”, he then informed me that these guys were tearing up the track that day and they always do, beating most bikes. Ah yes, ignorance is bliss my friends, needless to say, all the bikes avoided them like the plague that day, and I quickly wiped that smirk off my face as well. So what do you know about all this drag racing stuff Gary, (i.e., also known as connorsracing) :?:

Brian
 
Brian
The 2 stroke motors, i.e. snowmobiles and older bikes can really lay a whoopin on ya if your not expectin it. As for your tire spin? What rear tire pressure are you running. I use between 10 and 12 PSI at the track with the Avon 170 on the rear. I usually launch about 4500 to 5000 RPM. And shift around 10000. I have been told that I am doing this wrong as I am letting off the throttle when I shift and I guess that is not very consistant or efficient. Keep the throttle pinned wide open after the 1-2 shift as this can be a bit wicked. Just pull in the clutch a bit and shift with the throttle pinned. I have found that some additional octane from the racing fuel does help a bit! I also found that the fuel supply was not up to par on mine so I added a Pingel fuel tap. I also have the Holeshots, Dynojet stage3, K&N pods, 4 degree advancer and the fuel tap added to mine and the best time for me is 11.99 with no air shifter and no wheelie bar. You could look at possibly adding an air shifter but If racing is what you want to do I would definately think about adding a two step rev limiter as it would not hinder street riding. I hope this helps you out a bit.
Joker
 
Hi Joker,

I bought all these performance parts from “Holeshot Performance”, I have emailed Dale to get the skinny on all this, and Dale has emailed me back and said he will be returning to the office in 1-week, and at that time will lend me a hand. I want to know what to expect from this set-up, I am thinking high 11’s should be achievable consistently with this set-up, but I really do not know, yet.

Here is my set-up currently for my ZL900…

Holeshot Slip-On mufflers, K&N high flow pod filters, crank vent filter, +4° timing advancer, aftermarket main jets & needle shims, (#135 main-jets, turned out 3 full turns with 3-shims under each stock needle), Pingel fuel tap, Pingel dead mans switch, and Dyna High Output Coils & Wires. Front end has been lowered 2 inches using Progressive Suspension Fork Springs, and the rear lowered 2-inches using Progressive 440 series shocks.

I thought about that Joker, the rear tire is a stock Dunlap with 40 PSI in it, and I forgot to set my adjustable rear shocks for their stiffest setting, I also ran with a full tank of gas, not to mention my not getting the best of starts, it is my belief that I could have done much better, if I was just a bit more brave, however, I wouldn’t want those handle bars driving my chest onto the raceway. I guess you could say I am still feeling things out before giving it my all. I want to know what to expect from this set-up, so at least I know when I have reached the ceiling.

Brian
 
Ok, I looked through my friend's log book today and found about 6 runs that she made on the '85 900 before moving on to her Suzuki. Her best run of the 6 was around 7.7 on a 1/8 mile track. Her only day on a 1/4 mile track she said was under poor track conditions and she ran a 13 something.

A better benchmark for you might come from the original road tests done by the bike magazines of the day. The May 1985 issue of "Cycle" features a drag strip competition of 7 of the leading bikes out that year, including the zl900 and the vmax. With pro drivers, the 900 turned an impressive 11.07 seconds at 123.25 mph and, while the 900 had better roll on performance from a standing start, the vmax caught up to it, running a 10.99 at 124.04 mph.

By the way, that same report says that the 900 will redline in sixth gear at 144 mph, vmax 149.
 
I went 11.99 at 110 on mine. Another thing that you might want to consider for racing purposes only is 1)Changing the shocks out to solid struts from Pingel or another supplier, and 2)A strap to limit the upward travel of the front suspention also available from Pingel. This will give you much more consistancy in the first 60 feet which is where it really counts. Ill list the numbers from my best run. I think that high 11's is a bit conservitive as with practice you should be able to do a bunch better.
RT .329
60" 1.892
330' 4.997
1/8 7.62
MPH 91.48
1000' 9.96
1/4 11.992
MPH 109+
This run could have been improved on but I have not been back to the track much this year.
Joker
 
Let me share about some near misses…

Here is the skinny on the rest of all this, as experienced from a first timer, for those of you who may follow behind me, as I have followed others who went before me. I really must say this event nearly resulted in a bit of a tussle. :oops:

Unfortunately, most of the bikes skipped doing the burnout, so it was regrettably unfortunate for the poor old sod that was too close behind me, (he should not have been there), a Hyabusa was apparently impatient and lined up directly behind me while I prepared for the burnout, (I did not even know he was there, as my hands were quite full and I was watching for the officials hand signals). After pulling out of the water, I light up the rear tire and apparently condensation from my exhaust simultaneously came out like it was raining, so guess where all this water went? Now let me tell you, to say this guy was pissed-off is an understatement, when he finally caught up with me later down at the other end of the track on my way to getting my time slip, he was blaming me for this incident. I simply rode towards the nearest official I could find, he set the other guy straight, don’t be there behind another racer in the first place and it won’t happen. I used a trailer to get my ZL to the track, it was warm to the touch and the idle was stable, but the engine was not completely up to temperature at that point. 8O

Also, don’t laugh at anything; looks can be very deceiving, and you never know what is inside an engine. During the burnout, when you feather the front brake, and let the inertia of the rear tire push the bike while applying more throttle, my advice here is watch your speed, otherwise, when things hook-up, you may find yourself past the pre-stage and staging lights in a heartbeat, as I soon found out, as I went flying past them and had to push back. :idea:

When cleaning the tire, (the quick chop after the burnout), Be darn sure you have a good grip on the clutch lever, because at about 7,000 rpm’s when you let the clutch fly she is going to hop upwards really hard, that is if things are hooking up right, at this point in time pulling the clutch in becomes critical in saving your arse. :wink:

Other then that, I’ll let you know what Dale has to say, regarding all these things. In the mean time, I ordered “The Walker Edge” instructional videotape for drag racing, hey I’m humble, and it certainly can’t hurt a thing with a newbie like me. :mrgreen:

R/T .303
60’ 1.939
330’ 5.162
1/8 mile 7.894 @ 89.65 mph
1000’ 10.318
¼ mile 12.407 @ 106.40 mph

R/T -.007 (red lighted and spin the tire)
60’ 1.985
330’ 5.167
1/8 mile 7.860 @ 90.33 mph
1000’ 10.236
¼ mile 12.312 @ 107.29 mph

Brian
 
Brian,
I forgot to add best of luck and if you have any questions and I know the answer Ill be glad to help. Most important of all though keep your head on straight and ENJOY it! I have met some of the coolest people at the track.
Joker
 
Thanks guys,

I really appreciate all the help, encouragement and support you all have offered. I really look forward to meeting up with all of you next year, perhaps even at a “couple” of major events. And yes, this is great fun running down the ¼ mile track pushing the envelope, just like living life on the ragged edge. I still can’t believe that one day while driving along minding my own business, I suddenly see this motorcycle for sale, and the next thing I know I own it, I really had no idea what possessed me to do it, or where it would lead me, but here I am, racing towards a line on a track. All I have to say is this, once I get the knack of this and learn how to really launch this “widow maker” from a dead stop, you will all be the very first to know. I just need the yarbles to push her to the limit, while maintaining some resemblance of control and respect to her while doing so. If I never try, I will certainly never know… :?:

Sincerely,

Brian
 
knightkadosh said:
I still can’t believe that one day while driving along minding my own business, I suddenly see this motorcycle for sale, and the next thing I know I own it, I really had no idea what possessed me to do it, or where it would lead me, but here I am, racing towards a line on a track.
Click to expand...

Brian,

That sounds so familiar. I bought my bike in Spring 2003 and i had never thought of owning one until just a week or so before i bought it. Didn't even know how to ride it. I can still remember talking to my friend with a V-Max about how he had his up over 100 mph on a ride and i told him i'd never do such a thing...i just wasn't into speed. Sheeesh. Here i am 18 months later and i say "bring it on".

Go Brian. Go man go!
 
Hi Brian

What thickness shims did you use under the needles?

Thanks

Al
 
Hi Al,

I will check the exact thickness of one of the shims Monday, as I myself do not own any measuring devices accurate enough to measure something that thin. However, I do have a few customers that happen to have measuring devices exact enough to check these dimensions precisely. I will let you know once I get this done.

Brian
 
Just some thoughts, or maybe even just a great wish list… :roll:

So imagine this “sleeper”, an over bore piston kit, level 3 porting and polishing, mild deck milling, aftermarket cams, flat-slide carburetors, this definitely has potential for delivering 110 RWHP +. :mrgreen:

Unfortunately, I woke up… :cry:

Brian
 
If you only knew how close you might be to that with just some tuning right now!
Joker
 
Thanks Brian,much appreciated.

Also,what advantage do you get with an ignition advancer over the standard timing?

Cheers

Al
 
The measured dimensions, including thickness, of each "needle shim washer" is as follow:

ID=0.133"; OD=0.245"; Thick=0.031".

Looks to me like a "#4 flat washer" may work, as these are very close dimensionally.

You may be able to find something in a metric size, like maybe a 3 millimeter would work, just use less, or more washers, as required to achieve the same total lift. 8)

Brian
 
As for your second question, as I understand this piece of the puzzle…

The “ignition advancer” does just what the name implies; it advances the ignition timing. Basically, it sends the spark to the spark plug a little sooner than stock. While it technically may not add any extra HP, it does greatly improve “throttle response”, especially when combined with re-jetting!!! The timing of the explosions in the engine will change the peak horsepower vs. rpm, (i.e., raise or lower it, along the power curve); this can also affect the “shape” of the power curve. If you get the timing just right, and achieve optimal resonance with the airflow thru the exhaust, you will increase horsepower by having lowered the resistance of the engine/exhaust system in general. Burning your fuel efficiently only converts to torque when “all” the components of the system are working in maximum harmony, and ignition/exhaust resonance is a large piece of that puzzle. :wink:

With governmental emission standards in place, (i.e., striving for minimal emissions), and by keeping economy in mind for most end users, (i.e., minimum fuel consumption), a stock or factory bike is already lean.

Maximum output occurs at a slightly RICH condition…advancing spark timing leads to higher combustion pressure, (i.e., the same effect as changing compression ratio), although the ratio itself is unchanged.

Increased ignition timing also = more engine heat. Richening the mixture = less engine heat. Less engine heat = longer engine life. :idea:

As I have understood “ignition advancers”, I hope this helped to explain this single piece of the puzzle, as it works in harmony, (i.e., in synchronization with), the entire package of performance parts.

Brian
 
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