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Fork overhaul oil weight

Eastwood Dec 29, 2018

  1. Eastwood

    Eastwood Supporting Member

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    May start my fork overhaul in the next couple of days. Have all the new seals needed. Just need to purchase the fork oil. Question is, should I stick with the 10w fork oil or go with the 15w? Also will two 1 liters cans of fork oil be enough to do the job?
     
  2. R. J.

    R. J. Senior Member

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    :hello: How you been doing. It was great seeing you at VMD 2018. I use Bel-Ray 30 weight fork oil $14 a qt. :notworthy:. For FL it's OK. If I was you I'd use 20 weight. It will give you a bit more stiffness. A quart will be plenty to do one set of forks. ____________________________ IMG_6878.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2018
  3. Eastwood

    Eastwood Supporting Member

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    Been doing good RJ. Busy time of year before Christmas for this guy at work. Have some free time now and hope to take advantage of it. I see you are going to town on the VMD bike you purchased. Quite the ordeal that trip was. Hope you Can sit back and laugh about it now. Thanks for chiming in. May have to bend over and pay my local Kaw dealer if I can’t find it at a local auto center.
     
  4. Eastwood

    Eastwood Supporting Member

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    And go Steelers and Browns dare I say.
     
  5. markus56

    markus56 ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    I believe a quart will do both sides but I always use 15 weight oil. You'll see for yourself that most likely, you'll have the original fish oil in there and man does that stuff stink! I've never opened up a set of forks that were done prior and I'm sure I've done at least a dozen of them. This is a valuable tip......be sure to break loose the allen head bolt at the bottom of the forks before disassembly of the fender or triple tree bolts but don't remove it until the forks are removed and use a new copper gasket there. I use the allen head socket that's about an inch and a half long so it'll reach up in there and it won't strip it......they're usually pretty tight. After loosening that bolt, then you can remove the fender and slide 'em out of the triples. If you need any more pointers, let me know......I can do them in my sleep now!
     
    kvalheim likes this.
  6. R. J.

    R. J. Senior Member

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    :hello: That was a trip to Hell & back. The little XL 70 will look new when I'm done with it. Forks aren't all that hard to do. I've never done a set though. :laughing7:. I take just the forks to my friend Ron A. He dose mine for $25 labor so why bother doing them myself. :laughing7:. I do help him get the retainers back on the tops. I push down on the cap while he clips the clip ring in place. That's the hardest part. Get 3 quotes form 3 different shops on labor for just the forks. I have & they all want over $100. One last thing each fork takes 8.9 oz of fork oil. That is after being disassembled & dry.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2018
  7. Ed

    Ed Active Member

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    No reason to remove the caps if you're just replacing the seals or oil. Just fill them thru the allen bolt hole. Much easier than fighting with the spring to get the cap back on. You only need to remove the caps for changing or adjusting spring/preload.
     
  8. R. J.

    R. J. Senior Member

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    :hello: Unless you want to get all that 30 year old stinking motor oil out.
     
  9. markus56

    markus56 ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    I'm with you R.J., I prefer to completely disassemble the forks and clean every last drop of that old oil out of there. Otherwise, you can't know what shape the rest of those parts are in either like the bushings, etc. and it's not a thorough rebuild without checking everything. The tops do take two sets of hands to do but they're not too bad.
     
    R. J. likes this.
  10. R. J.

    R. J. Senior Member

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    :hello: :notworthy:. When I help Ron A. we spray all the parts down with brake parts cleaner then run a dryer vent cleaner wraped in shop towels in the lower fork tubes. Also we wipe down all the internal parts. Before assembling I buff both inner & lower fork tube. I'd say it takes about 3 hours or so. IMG_6881.JPG
     
  11. Ed

    Ed Active Member

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    I used to be picky about getting things perfectly clean but it never made a difference in the ride or caused any extra noticeable wear. The heavier sludge and crap settles in the bottom of the leg and the new oil is so much better than factory that just cleaning the lower legs seems to be good enough. I do let them drain a long time in a warm area though. Nothing wrong with a thorough cleaning. It's just been my experience that the results really aren't worth the extra effort.
     
  12. Eastwood

    Eastwood Supporting Member

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    Never got around to the fork overhaul like I had hoped. Do plan on a complete clean once they are apart. Much appreciate the info tricks on how you guys went about doing the job. Most likely I will have a few questions before I jump in the ring.
     
  13. PTPopz813

    PTPopz813 Member

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    Wow, open up ZL-OA to find info and Bang there is the answer! Was going to search oil viscosity and amount... Never got that far! Love this site!
     
  14. markus56

    markus56 ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    What most new guys don't understand is that everything about these bikes has been discussed before and the info is in the search function. All you've got to do is look.
     
  15. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Good to see people doing maintenance on their bikes!
     

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