HAD A WHITE KNUCKLE MOMENT TODAY !

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ARCHIVE_jacemdom

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Compression measurement

Salut.

1- In the base manual on page 4-14, in the compression measurement procedure, it says to "install the main harness ground lead using a suitable bolt"...? i don't understand why to that that???

2- It says afterwards "Using the starter motor, turn the engine over with throttle fully open..."??? By hand or using the starter button?

Is this the way that some of you do this?
 
Not sure what bolt they are referring to. All I can suggest is they mean the earth to the engine to ensure the starter motor is maintaining a good circuit, but this should be the case anyways, beats me. Now I must go read the manual myself when I get home.

With regards to the cranking, use the starter button. The full throttle bit is to ensure your cylinders are getting a full charge of air before compression.
 
Re: Compression measurement

jacemdom said:
Salut.

1- In the base manual on page 4-14, in the compression measurement procedure, it says to "install the main harness ground lead using a suitable bolt"...?
Click to expand...

Because on the bike that the base manual refers to, the grounding lead bolts to one of the tank mounting bolts.......The eliminators do not have a grounding strap at this location...........ignore it completely.

KK
 
Maybe they're talking about grounding the spark plug wire. I know with my sled I need to put the plug back in the wire and make sure it's grounded while cracking it over for a comp. test.
 
i was coming from dropping michelle off at work today, & was riding eleanor, when i was coming upon a red light, went to put the rear brake on, & heard a " pop" from the rear calliper. the brake pad fell apart ! luckily my riding skills helped me out. i litely pumped the front brake, while downshifting & letting the engine help slow the bike.

i made it home safely, & put new pads on the bike ! she's up & running a little safer now ! JUST A REMINDER TO ALL OF US . check your brakes regularly.

i had alot of pad left, so i never thought i'd have to worry ! now, i'm definately going to be more cautious ! never thought a brake pad would fall apart, but, i guess anything is possible ! CHRIS
 
Ouch, that could have been nasty. Nice to hear you handled it well Chris. Have fun bedding in the new pads.
 
the brake pad fell apart!
Click to expand...

How old are the pads chris? That IS a scary thought. It could have been a hell of a lot worse, for instance, if you were into a corner and the back wheel locked up? You are a lucky guy. Thanks for the heads up. Gonna check my pads first thing in the mornin...

blag
 
Sounds like a rough moment, but I want to point something out. The rear brakes are secondary, 75% of your stopping power comes from the front and there are very few instances where the rear should be used more than the front. When you lost the rear brake, you mentioned lightly pumping the fronts. Don't fear the front brakes. Grab 'em firmly, let the weight transfer plant the front tire down. The rear brake is better when it's used like a rudder so to speak, it can help slow you down and can stabilize the bike when braking hard into a corner. Also, you don't want only one tire doing all the work. I don't want to cause you any grief and glad everything worked out, but I figured it was a good opportunity to share some insight.
 
I AGREE, gosupes !

the front brakes do most of the stopping, & normally i would have just relied on them, however, i forgot to mention, the street i was coming down, had a lot of lose gravel from a crappy patch job !

blag, not sure how old brakes were ! they were on the bike when i bought her in feb. CHRIS
 
I see car brakes come apart frequently, usually comes from the glue (bonding agent) letting go, given the potential age this doesn't surprise me. Heat can have an effect too. A cheaper pad is also exactly that, a cheaper pad, the materials are not the quality we would like to see on anything that I or You own."A LESSON FOR US ALL"
 
Chris,

I want to thank you for posting this thread. :salute: I checked my pads yesterday and on my front left caliper, one of the pads had 1/3rd corner of the pad missing... Cant make out the manufacturers markings. My rear cali has green EBC pads and they're fine but the front pads have no markings.. Front pads are over 8 years old. When I reviving my ZL a few months ago, I stripped the calipers and cleaned the pads, they had no signs of damage and were only 10% worn. I thought they'd be fine...
bikers beware, check your pads!

blag
 
I just got a new set, front and rear from brakeplanet.com last week and will have them installed before this Saturday. Cost about $50 or so, including shipping for all three sets.
 
" wow " rammy ! sounds like you got a deal on those pads ! went to the stealership for mine ! for a complete set, front/rear cost me $96.00 :pale: , but then again, can't put a price on michelle & my safety !

blag, welcome ! just glad you were able to notice your broken pad before you had a scary moment like me ! CHRIS
 
I've just ordered new pads for my 900, front and back for £57 with £5 delivery. My back pads are very low, so thought I might as well replace them while my bike's off the road. Replacing the front wheel bearings at the same time.
 
Well done Chris - roadrash doesn't look good on you or your lady or your Ellie :pale:
I agree - when I was a young 'un, I was told 75% front and max of 25% rear brake to keep her stable.
On loose crap, you really would have your hands full ! An Ellie isn't exactly light.
:nonono:
With her two up she would have a lot of momentun to haul up!
Guess I'll be doing a pad check soon then. :D
 
Installed the brake pads on Sunday and it wasn't as hard as I thought. Didn't have to remove the tires, just take the bolts out holding the caliper, losen the brake fluid cap so you can compress the caliper piston, then I turned the outside pad at a sligh angle to compress the pad holder piston to get the outside pad off. Got all three sets of pads at Brake Planet for less than $55 shipped to my door. Looks just like the OEM pads.

Make sure you put a rag under the front brake lever to catch the brake fluid and not let it drip on the gas tank like I did and spent a hour polishing the gas tank. Glad it didn't strip the paint off.
 
Rammy, do you bleed your brakes every year? If not is a very cheap, EZ, good idea. Hygroscopic and the heat of braking can break the fluid down and lower the boiling point, It might be okay until you do the "dragontail"
 
I drained all the brake fluid and replaced about 3 years ago, but if you ask the rest of the guys, you'll find out that I don't ride the bike very often maybe putting a couple hundred miles a year.
 
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