ignition problems

[ARCHIVE_marki]

Online Shopping

Hi, anyone got any recommendations for online shops for ZL spares? I've given up trying the UK places.

 

[ARCHIVE_doode]

ive bought a bit of stuff thru USA eBay,,

cheaper$$ than here!(Oz)

 

[ARCHIVE_marki]

Tell me about it!

In the UK a dynojet kit is £106, the ones on US ebay are closer to $110 with shipping. Works out to about £60

 

[ARCHIVE_Rocket]

I won’t hog all the links (someone else may like to help you too) but you could start with this one:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/motorcycle_parts.php?bike=ZL1000&subcategory=&DisplayPerPage=100&Start=0

The others would also have a better idea as to who would best serve your needs (price/service wise) as I have no experience with most, not from down under anyway

 

[gosupes]

I am posting this as more of general information that someone might find useful in the future. The other night I rode into Seattle to watch a ballgame with a buddy. After winding our way through the city and hit one of the 2 floating bridges into town, we hit a lot of stop and go traffic. It was about that time that my bike stated acting up. It "felt" like it was flooding out in one or two cylinders. When the RPM's were above 4K, it ran fine, but once I let it idle, it would bog down and die and get a little cranky about staring. Made it to the game OK, and getting home was fine as there was nothing but freeway so no chance to load up. I tore into it the next day. Pulled the carbs out, nothing unusual - float height good, no leaking floats, needle seats look good, diaphragms good. Pulled the valve cover off (the plug cavity seal were leaking some anyway), check the valve clearance, installed new seal and bolted her back up. Then I noticed it. One of the spark plug boots was loose. I looked at the end of the wire and the copper was becoming corroded. I pulled another apart and it was corroded as well. I had some extra 8mm wire from a set I made for one of my cars. The silicone core wires will carry a higher resistance than the copper, but as long as the wires are fairly equal in length, it won't matter. The 8mm size was a little tough getting it to slide into the boot, but a drop of liquid soap will help. Just got back from a ride and all is good. Even better. I think it's the best she has ever ran. I had a good rolling burn-out going until I missed second gear ale:

To sum it up, if you have replaced the wires at any time, put a thin film of RTV on the wire jacket before installing into the boot, this will help keep moisture and corrosion out. Or get some bulk 7mm or 8mm wire from the auto parts store and trade them all out. The silicone wires are not a susceptible to corrosion as copper.

 

[CHRIS]

hey gosupes, i had similiar probs. with mine a few months back, & other probs. as well, but vfrman helped me out with 8mm racing wires, from his pro street race car. yep, it was tough getting that 8mm wire into the spark plug boots, but we did it, & electic greese, & silicone to keep the moisture out, is a good suggestion ! thanks for the post.

the wires were a good platform for me to start at, & it did run a little better, but zlmark & wuputt stopped by, & noticed that my carbs were not properly seated. they are now, & she runs like a raped ape ! CHRIS

 

[rammy1500]

I had a similar problem and prt of the issue was a cracked spark plug boot, so I replaced all the wires and boots.

 

[zlMark]

gosupes.........you aren't using resistance style wires are you?

 

[gosupes]

They are. I thought about that, maybe creating too much impedance for the spark. It's only temporary until I do some more reading on the subject. It sure runs good though.

 

[zlMark]

accel #3008 they are stranded copper and available at advance auto parts. Just use the wires from this set. not the ends. works great. You can see them in my pics i have floating around. tech section too

 

[gosupes]

I'll have to do some more reading on the subject. Some ignitions, like the ZL, use the 5K in the cap but none in the wire or plug. Other bikes uses resistor wires, but not caps. Cars use resistor wires and plugs. Some bikes used copper wire, some stainless steel. Too much dry info to read right now. I am going to look into low resistance spiral wire as well. I think if you keep the total value to between 5K and 15K, you should be OK. Any more, the coil might not have to current to overcome the total resistance. Anyone else have any thoughts or are using something unusual?

 

[zlMark]

Man I just got back from a ride, Bike is missing, I think you jinxed me!

 

[Yossarian]

I tried Magnecor wire because I could get 7mm, black wire sold by the foot. The conductor isn't rigid enough to make decent contact with the pins in the coils and sparkplug boots. I ended up with the Accel 3008 set...

 

[gosupes]

Man I just got back from a ride, Bike is missing, I think you jinxed me!

LOL! Sorry bro

 

[MARTY]

i had a simular problem,it was the carb boots not sealing all the way,on the air box side,seemed ok,then about 4k,the engine vaccume pulled the tubes in tight and it flew,all is well now,thanks guys for all the info,that is posted,if i ever get to read it all and take notes,i will be able to help someone else

 

[unohim]

I have a 97 ZL600 and it has a similar problem between 5-7 gran. Just happens to be my cruising speed around here. In town it will run fine but hold that steady rpm and it seems like its running out of gas but i think its missing. You romp on it and it seems like it clears out and @ 7gran starts peeling your face back. I have noticed that the spring keepers on the rubber boots from the carbs to the air box are missing.......could it be that simple that they pull tight and seal and if so, why dont it miss in town @ low rpms