Mark and Chris saying hello to Moab

[ARCHIVE_bama900]

Advice on Dirty Carbs

Hi. I just bought my first Eliminator, an '85 900 that had sat for a while. Starts and idles for a little bit with choke on but then dies. Can someone point me to a good step-by-step guide for cleaning the carbs? Any special concerns with an Eliminator? Thanks.

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Check for vapor lock by trying with gas cap open. also check the vacuum line going to the fuel tap or just put in prime position(always return to on position when not riding or you'll hydraulic a hole in your block, piston etc)

Try this first before taking apart carbs. Get a can of Sea Foam from your local auto parts supplier. Run engine to warm up and then completely drain tank and fuel bowls. Add full can of seafoam and same amount fresh gas. run engine, drive if you can and then let soak overnight. Drain tank and fuel bowls again and replace with fresh gas. If this works or makes a big improvement you can repeat the procedure.

Get an inline fuel filter. The factory filter in the tap blows. I'd suggest a small metal one from autozone.

Give these a try I'll try to put together some info for pulling the carbs for ya.

 

[ARCHIVE_rammy1500]

Try Mark's trick first because if that works that will save you a lot of time. If it doesn't we have plenty of hints/help here on pulling the carbs.

 

[ARCHIVE_bama900]

Thanks, will give it a try this weekend and let you know.

 

[ARCHIVE_bama900]

Tried the Seafoam but no go, I'm going to have to pull the carbs. I have a good idea what I need to do but here's the stupid question...what's the trick to getting the thing off the bike? I've detached the cables and hoses and loosened all the boot clamps but can't find enough room to wiggle the carbs out. Is there a trick? Thanks.

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

remove screws from airbox and push back as far as it will go. hose down the airbox boots with WD40 and tilt carbs downward and push carbs against the airbox boots as you forcefully slide them out. Be very careful not to tear the carb holders(intakes) they are discontinued.

 

[ARCHIVE_bama900]

Will do, thanks. That's what I was afraid of, damaging some part that would be hard to replace.

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Got an IDEA, try this for me. take a ratcheting tie down strap around the back of the frame rails just behind the airbox and around the front of the airbox over the airbox boots and crank it down, let me know how this works!

 

[ARCHIVE_rammy1500]

Plus loosen up the bolts on the overflow reservor, behind the airbox and this will get you another 1/4 of inch or so. Every inch helps in this case. I pulled the carbs back so they came out of the engine side boots first, then turn the front of the carbs downward then slide them out the left hand side of the bike. I brought them out far enough to take the throttle cables off. Prior to removing the carbs, I disconnected the fuel line, vacuum line and choke cable while the carbs were still mounted. And before that I removed the gas tank and seat. Also helps to have another set of hands if possible to hold the carbs while you take off the trottle cables and such.

 

[ARCHIVE_bama900]

Ok I'm game, I'll try the tie down strap idea (plus all the other stuff). If this is all some practical joke on the new guy and I wind up with a crushed airbox I'm not posting anymore.

Thanks for the help guys. My last bike was fairly new and I never had to do any of this stuff.

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Ok I'm game, I'll try the tie down strap idea (plus all the other stuff). If this is all some practical joke on the new guy and I wind up with a crushed airbox I'm not posting anymore.

Thanks for the help guys. My last bike was fairly new and I never had to do any of this stuff.

LOL of course do this at your own risk. the whole idea is to get the airbox boots compressed away from the carbs. I'm thinking they will fold over giving your plenty of room to get the carbs out.

 

[ARCHIVE_rammy1500]

It also helps to spray WD-40 on the boots as well, especially when you go to put the carb back in. I told my son if we had to keep taking the carbs on and off I was going to put pods on instead of the airbox, but then that causes a whole nother set of problems.

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

If this is all some practical joke on the new guy and I wind up with a crushed airbox I'm not posting anymore.

Seriously though....the only thing I would worry about with that idea, is splitting 20 year old rubbers.

Make sure that they are lovely and warm so that they stay supple when you tighten the straps down..............



Oh....and keep the airbox rubbers warm as well

crushed airbox?

No I always walk like this.

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_bama900]

I chickened out on the tie down strap idea...those airbox boots just looked too old and hard and I was afraid of splitting one. Once I pulled the carbs out of the engine boots I slid a flexible plastic three-ring binder cover in between the two and slid the carbs down and out. It kept the carbs from catching on the boots. Now let's hope the carbs are actually the problem.

 

[ARCHIVE_kawasaki-krazy]

The real fun bit is getting the buggers back in. Good luck

KK

 

[ARCHIVE_rammy1500]

True, getting the carbs out is the easy part, getting them back in takes a little work. Lucky for me, my son wanted to learn how to work on the bike so he held the carbs while I hooked the cables and hoses back up to it. Check the pilot jets because 99 out of 100 times thats the biggest reason the bike won't idle right.

 

[zlMark]

 

[lowlife]

 

[wuputt]

By the looks on your faces I'm wondering why there isn't a pyramid of empty beer cans behind you???

 

[zl900_moab]

Awwww......You guys are so sweet.....I'm tearing up as we speak.....I can't wait till MidOhio next year, I am so gonna tear your arms off and.....Oh, nevermind, you guys are sweet...
moab...