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  1. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Sorry for this long post. So I picked up a zl10 non-runner last month. Posted it when I got it. Messed with it for a day or 2. Then other stuff pushed it to the back burner.

    Started back on it a few days ago. There was no fire when I got it. I started with unknown service or down time. So.........

    Tank off and cleaned out, not bad but a terrible Cream job. Petcock checked and works as it should. Fuel line changed. Carb took off and cleaned what I had. Looks as someone has been there recently. Not bad but I'm not a pro but they wern't either. Cheep pods, no air box with bike.

    Oil and filter change. Rotella/k&n. Correct to sight glass.

    New NGK plugs. 7mm plug wires and NGK boots. Coils test good. New fuses in fuse box. New, charged battery.

    E free gas. And..........Nothing
    It cranks all day like a champ. Take plugs out and they are wet.

    Pulled the coil wires and did test light check that I saw on another old post. No flashing.

    Check connection at pickup/pulse coils. Cleaned and greased. They ohm test from plug within spec. Checked their air gap and adjusted equally to manual spec. Not bad just unequal. Same, no flash with test light.

    I have an extra IC egniter so changed that. Noting so I put the non-runner one and the spare in a running zl10 and they both work. Took the one from said running zl10 to the non-runner and no good result.

    Also I did pull in on the clutch. Cleaned switch. I cleaned up the side stand switch and also jumped it. Cleaned up nutrial safety wire connection.

    Am I doing too much? Missing something simple? I'm having fun with bad results. Seems odd I know but I hate to part it out.
     
  2. prfixer

    prfixer Senior Member Supporting Member

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    What are the connections to the coils from the main harness? Black and red on the coil for cylinder 1&4 and green and red for the coil for cylinder 2&3?
     
  3. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Did you try a squirt of starter fluid?

    Have you tested the wire assemblies, they may not be seated into the spikes if the new wire had a bend to it before assembly.

    Keep plugging away at it!
     
  4. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Yes. Black/red on left green/red on right.
     
  5. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Did the starting fluid before taking things apart. It didn't even burp with that. I will check the wires again but there is no fire at the wires out of the harness. Unless I'm checking that wrong.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2020
  6. prfixer

    prfixer Senior Member Supporting Member

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    How about wiggling the key as you are pressing the start button. Seems like I remember the ignition switch can get dirty and do that.
     
    87kawzl likes this.
  7. prfixer

    prfixer Senior Member Supporting Member

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    What plugs are you running?
     
  8. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    I will try wiggling the key next time I work on it. Is there a connection that will let it turn over but not produce fire to the coil in there? It turns over extremely well.

    I'm just running D8ea NGK's.
     
  9. Trojan441

    Trojan441 Well-Known Member

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    Engine Timing right? Ignition trigger point from crank sounds to me like the engine timing is out or HT leads misaligned to which cylinder they fire or carburettor now allowing the engine to run Air blockage somewhere?
     
  10. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Timing may be out. Was hoping that it wouldn't be. I plan on valve adjustment and change the chrome cam cover back to a black one anyway. When you say HT leads do you mean the plug wires or the wires from the harness to the coils? Plug wires are right.
     
  11. Trojan441

    Trojan441 Well-Known Member

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    High Tension leads are the wires to the Spark plugs,
     
  12. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Valve adjustment sounds logical next step. Check the ohms across the wires while it's apart as well as looking for loose wire connections.

    When my ignition switch (key) went South, it would die while riding then not crank when I pressed the start button until I jiggle the key.

    Maybe one of the pick ups is bad and you are only getting good test 1/2 of the time it should be sending the signal?
     
  13. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Thanks. That's what I thought you were saying.
     
  14. wuputt

    wuputt ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Technical Author Supporting Member

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    Check on off switch by throttle? Open headlight and open/close all connectors?

    I am not a fan of lining tanks. My 1K had a bad Cream job when I bought it. Took me days to get it all out. As long as you keep some good gas in it, it won't rust.
     
  15. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    I agree with no tank liner. If I was to use anything like that it would be Red-Cote but only if I have to. How did you get the Cream out?

    I will go through all connections next time I work on it. Gonna step back for a few days.
     
  16. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Didn't get much time today to wrench. Had a class at work that took longer then it should have.

    Things today:
    Checked plug wire order, cleaned/greased coil connections and pickup coil connections. Put things together for a key wiggle test. Cranks like a champ but nothing. Took off pods just to see if it would hit. Nope.
    I even shot some start fluid to it. Nope.

    Have to work this weekend so I'm gonna give it a brake. Next week I will pull off the cam cover to see what's under there. Maybe it's out of time. Ain't throwing tools yet but close.
     
  17. wuputt

    wuputt ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Technical Author Supporting Member

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    There are two chemicals (that I am aware of) that will break down that crap! Methyl Ethyl Keytone and Acetone. Neither is cheap! I used Acetone due to availability. It was $17 gal. in 2005 and I used 5 gal. total for my 1K.
     
  18. JohnH#II

    JohnH#II Active Member

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    Had a chance to get the cam cover off and by looks it is really clean almost new looking cams. On the other hand the valves are super tight. Couldn't even get any feeler gauge under any of them. Timing seems right, but not sure. Checked for a bent rod as described on here and a Connie site and all are the same height. The larger outside gasket looks newer but the spark plug hole gaskets were trash. I have about 8-10 new ones on hand. Didn't get much further and got redirected. This weekend I will tackle the valve adjustment and see if it helps.

    Any advice on making sure timing is right appreciated.
     

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