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Fuel tap, (petcock) rebuild

Technical question:

Re: “Fuel tap, (petcock) rebuild”,

While cleaning and rebuilding the “fuel tap assembly”, I ran across a “potential” leaking problem, with regards to a good seal between two parts. I have not installed the fuel tap onto the fuel tank as of yet, since I am hoping to avoid just such a disappointing discovery, causing me to do the work twice.

On the backside of the “fuel tap assembly” there is a square plastic piece with a breather hole for eliminating fuel tank vacuum, this square plastic piece is sandwiched between the fuel tap itself, and the “diagram assembly”, this plastic piece is no longer attached to the fuel tap, it has become a separate piece onto itself, should, or can this plastic piece be reused, if resealed, since it has now broken free from the fuel tap, if so, is there a special sealant for just such an environment. It appears the plastic piece was originally cemented onto the metal fuel tap itself, I find remnants, i.e., a rough surface on the metal fuel tap mating surface, my best guess, while gently resurfacing the fuel taps surface, was that maybe a gasket or sealant was originally used on here. Parts diagrams do not shown this plastic piece as a separate part, but only as part of the fuel tap itself. My best guess is the cleaning solvent may have eaten away at the seal. Any thoughts, experiences, or ideas, anyone?

Thanks,

Brian
 
Brian,

The square piece on the back of the petcock, is a vacuum diaphram that once attached to the vacuum hose, allows the fuel to flow, when in the "on" position. If this piece is damaged, the fuel may/may not flow, and at that point, many just put the petcock on "prime", as this lets fuel flow all the time. If you purchase a petcock rebuild kit (many on Ebay lately), this piece should be included with the other seals needed to take care of your problem. When I rebuilt mine, I cleaned up the rest of the petcock with a Dremel, and brass wire wheel.

Hope this helps,

Rob in Chicago
 
THIS SOUNDS STUPID BUT WHAT SIZE PLUG KEY FITS THE 900.MY 10MM TO SMALL MY 16MM WON`T ENTER THE CHAMBER.ALSO ANYONE HAD PROBLEM WITH OIL AROUND THE PLUG.I`M HAVING STARTING PROBLEMS BUT CAN`T REMOVE PLUG. THANKS ANDY :detective:
 
monkeyhanger said:
THIS SOUNDS STUPID BUT WHAT SIZE PLUG KEY FITS THE 900.MY 10MM TO SMALL MY 16MM WON`T ENTER THE CHAMBER.ALSO ANYONE HAD PROBLEM WITH OIL AROUND THE PLUG.I`M HAVING STARTING PROBLEMS BUT CAN`T REMOVE PLUG. THANKS ANDY :detective:
O-Rings in the valve cover need replaced.
I bought a cheap 18mm socket and ground the outside of it so it would fit down into the well :good luck:
 
:) thanks for advise i have a full set of deep reach sckets will give them a go,has anyone had a problem with a dickie cdi unit, i`m really worried this could be my starting problem,if it is how hard are they to find????? thanks andy
 
THANKS KK, I`VBE WORKED OUT I HAVE A VERY WEAK SPARK ON NO. 2&3 CYLINDER MUST BE EASIER TO GET A COIL FROM A GPZ THAN A ZL I THINK... ANDY :yeahthat:
 
THANKS FOR THAT MANAGED TO GET PLUGS OUT WELL OILED ,REMOVED ROCKER COVER RE-SEALED ,CLEANED PLUGS AND SHE FIRED UP, BIT LUMPY BUT RUNNING ON ALL FOUR,FOUR INDIVIDUAL PIPES AND CANS SOUNDS GOOD,TRY LATER WITH BAFFLES REMOVED. AGAIN THANKS FOR ADVISE :dancingfool: ANDY
 
Hey Monkeyhanger,
what did you end up using to get your plugs out ?
I have 3 different long reach sockets - the walls are too thick to reach down far enough !
I have a thin wall socket of the right size - but it isn't deep enough !
I have a couple of cheap box spanners which I could cut down, or grind a bit off the wall of one of the sockets.
Would be really pleased to know if you found a good solution to this problem.
Keep On Eliminating !
Vin. :whax:
 
hello mate i found a box spanner welded a bolt head on the top and used that.i will have a look next time i`m in the workshop and give you the size. andy :cool10:
 
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