Restoration Advice

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ARCHIVE_Marty

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Fork specs

Can someone tell me the specs for fork pressure and air gap in a set of '86 ZL600 forks?
 
forks

Are you talking about the atmospheric pressure within the forks? If you are then it is 0 (zero) Furchin
 
Well, my forks have pressure valves at the top, so I just assumed that you are supposed to pressurize them. When I got them, one of the forks had about 5-6 lbs of pressure, the other had none. I'm getting parts to do a full rebuild, including progressive springs, but i only have the manual for the '96 eliminator, and the only thing it says is to "adjust fork pressure" after reassembly.
 
Sooooo Much Pressure

Marty;

Alot of us run the front and rear forks and shocks without any "Air Assist".

In the service manual it gives the spec.s on proper air pressure. Some of us are concerned that too much of a good thing might go bad.

The 900s can run up to 32lbs. I believe in them, (I don't have my manual handy , so don't take that as 100% accurate.
I'm not at all sure about the 600's pressure.

I'm sure one of these guys can quote you the spec.s right out of the manual.
 
Thanks Bob, that's helpful to know. Does anyone know the fluid level and/or amount that should be added once the forks are reassembled. It is a set of 86 forks, as I am replacing the front end on my 96 with an 86 (i like the 3-spoke wheels).
 
Hey Marty Front Fork specs are as follows

Oil - SAE 10W-20

Oil Capacity - 310 + or - 4ml completely dry
aprrox 265 ml when changing oil

Oil Level - 141 + or - 2 mm below from top of inner tube (compressed without main spring

Air Pressure - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE

I have the 86 ZL 600 manual Original and it does not say anywhere to add air pressure
 
I could scan in the pages on the Fork Blow up pics it also has the Torque specs for the bolts.....

Just gotta load up my scanner drivers
 
Michael121 said:
Hey Marty Front Fork specs are as follows

Oil - SAE 10W-20

Oil Capacity - 310 + or - 4ml completely dry
aprrox 265 ml when changing oil

Oil Level - 141 + or - 2 mm below from top of inner tube (compressed without main spring

Air Pressure - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE

I have the 86 ZL 600 manual Original and it does not say anywhere to add air pressure
Click to expand...

I need to add that when you adjust the pressure do it with the suspension hanging off the ground,, it's fun by the way with no center stand. :evil:
 
I just picked up a set of forks for my 86 on ebay for $9.99

Planning to redo those then switch the set.

I'll get those pages scanned for you this weekend Marty.

Fork free spring length - 486.5mm

Service Limit - 476 mm

Adjust air pressure as follows:

Lift front wheel off ground, check air pressure is cold (room temp)

1. Remove air valve cap

2. Push in the valve core briefly to equalize pressure

3. Install air valve cap

*Additional air pressure is not recommended
 
Well Geting the Old Girl off the Floor is Pretty Easy. I built an A Frame Lift to get the Back and Front off the Ground, I have a 1 Car [NOT REALY 8O ] Garage So space is Pretty Cramped. The Frame Can Be Assembled in About a Minute, Taken down as Quick and Stores Flat against the Wall. Had a Bunch of Pics on my Old Pooter before it Crashed, Any one Intrested I will Take Some more, All the Material Except the Hoist was Recycled from Local Dumpsters at Building Sites
Gas for going "Dumpster Hoping" $10
Misc Bolts Screws etc $8
Hoist For $18 PRICLESS
Later Rocky :twisted:
 
I actually found a great way to lift the front end. A few months ago, I installed a crash bar that goes across the bottom in front of the downpipes. Just lifted it up and set the bar on a couple cinderblocks, and blocked the rear wheel. Makes for a very sturdy stand.
 
Thanks a lot for the pages Michael. Should have the seals and stuff in by midweek.
 
Hey guys. I bought an Eliminator that had obviously sat outside for a while. Rusted screws and brackets, the forks were full of water, etc... I need some advice on cleaning up all the corrosion and pitting on the aluminum parts. I'm thinking specifically about the wheel rims, rear hub, and steering head. Any suggestions on how to get all the crud off and get some shine back on these parts? I've tried those commercial wheel cleaners and they're about as effective as tap water.

Also, I've cleaned out the carbs and it idles good and runs strong at high RPMs, but at low RPMs (2000-3000) the motor sputters a little. Ideas? Thanks.

Andy
 
As in a slight down grade with very little throttle?,,,,try 1/2 turn out on the mixture screws
 
Alu wheels?

broke my heart tryin to clean them up. Same as you, tried a lot of different products but nothing worked well. Still white powdery finish. I recon if you cleaned them meticulously with acetone and laqured them soon afterwards, you might be ok. I eventually wound up re-painting them with aluminium colour plasti-cote... Not bad but I dont like the colour so I'll be re-doing them this coming winter...

blag
 
Hi bama900,

When I first got my bike, the alloy was in a similar condition, I just removed the things I could from the bike and rubbed them with wet & dry fine sandpaper sponge blocks and then buffed the **** out of them with a buffing mop on a drill until I got a mirror finish.

The others parts I couldn't remove or didn't want to remove, I cleaned them "insitu", I used an old toothbrush embedded with a mildly abrasive kitchen creme cleanser and a bit of elbow grease to remove the "tarnish" on the rims and triple clamps to bring some sort of shine to them. The bike still needs some more work in the polishing department, but it's considerably better looking than it did before.

Don't use that "Maserati" mag wheel polishing lint type stuff, it turns the magnesium / aluminium alloy on the cases dull and grey, use any creme polish specifically designed for automotive aluminium, like "autosol" or "purple" they give the best results.

Mick.
 
I used a sand blaster on my front rim. I used walnut shells as the media. It cleaned the rim up real nice but I did have to get after it with some 0000 steel wool and chrome cleaner for a good shine. Now I need to do the same to the rear rim but that will be done when I tear it down for full paint job.
 
fine sand paper, polish, & countless hours! keep repeating until desired shine. started mine in febuary, & still have a ways to go, but i'll get that mirror shine :D CHRIS
 
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