Temperature sensor problems

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ARCHIVE_Wuputt

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ZL900 for sale in Ill.

Does anyone know anything about this bike for sale in Hamilton Ill.? Ebay item # 2489451564
My son wants one but is too far to go for a look. He will be driving through there in a week or so and would love to pick up this bike.
 
Hey Wuputt, Seems Kind of Funny a Bike with as Low Milage as It Claimed has had QUIET a Bit of Motor and Tranny Work Done[ DragBike????] For the Money Now I'd say GO FOR IT, The Pics are Vague and DARK, Id email him about some more Info, Later Rocky :twisted:
 
Rocky, I agree 100%. I think Brent is going to try to snatch it at the end of the auction. He wants a Eli pretty bad right now, got that crotch rocket itch scratched away by riding next to me!
 
Well now Jeff,

This is certainly an interesting development, so Brent decided to go for a ZL 900 after all. Regarding the bike itself, initially, I pondered this myself, but the distance made the acquisition too labor intensive, and you certainly can’t beat the price either. The good news is, as yet another, soon to be, K.E.R.A. member will be joining our ranks… :) Tell Brent that I offer him this friendly gesture, in the form of a “Pre-, Welcome Aboard”… :D

Go Brent… 8)

Brian
 
My newly running zl900 sems to be running hot. The fan won't come on by itself. I grounded out the wires from the temp sensor in the rad and the temp sensor at the thermoststat individualy and got the fan to come on both times. Does anyone know if the sensors can be tested to see if they are shot?
 
I dont know about what your asking but my fan wont come on at idle for what seems like a very long time...... on my old GPZ I put a togle switch on it. only had to use it at idle and in traffic. I also like to use it after a hard run.... am going to do the same on my zl.... if I hear the fan running I dont care what the sensor is doing or not doing 5555555555555555
 
Here's the spec for testing the sensors.
Fan switch (97 degrees C)
On 94-100C (201 - 212F)
Off Above 90C (194F)


Fan switch( 110 degrees C)
On 107 - 113C (225 - 235F)
Off above 104C (219F)

On= Less than 0.5ohms
Off= More than 1 Mohms

This is with the probe and threads submerged.

Hope this helps.
Later,
SS
 
Thanks for your reply on temp sensors. I tried to get an ohm reading across them in boiling water. No luck, so I guess they are shot. I found 1 sensor for sale on ebay but its $60 so I will probably hook up a three way toggle switch and run them manually.
 
I tried testing the 3 sensors in boiling water with a multimeter. My meter only would not read any ohms between the lead and the sensor body except on the water temp warning which gave a full continuity reading no matter what I tried (hot or cold).
 
You have to get them pretty hot, boiling water may not do the trick. Backing up a tick, why does the bike seem to be running hot? I know, I know, becuase it's running hot. Does the light come on, pissing coolant everywhere, launching the rad cap at low flying aircraft? The reason I ask is I had a similar problem with mine, and the valves were WAY out of adjusment, which can cause the engine to run hot. You stated earlier "newly running"? Refresh my memory as to why the bike was not running in the first place.
Later,
SS
 
Overheating

Hi: I'm the one who posted the inquiries in the thread cited earlier (http://www.eliminator-us.org/kforums/viewtopic.php?t=1024).

One thing I use to alleviate heat issues (I'm in Arizona) is use "Engine Ice" coolant...expensive, but a significantly higher boiling point than standard antifreeze.

Also, you might want to replace the bottom temperature sensor on the radiator with one that brings on the fan earlier (in other words, get a sensor that sends signal to turn on fan at a lower temperture.) I did that, and it works like a charm.

I also purchased and installed the Muzzy's fan. Couldn't hurt, right?

I use Waynesvile Cycle (800-438-7921) to buy OEM parts for the bike, and I use this website to get the appropriate part numbers:

www.buykawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentUrl=/SITE
/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP

It took some work and a bit of $ to do this, but now I don't worry about overheating, even when I'm in 100 degree weather.

Good luck!

Aaron
 
Hello all, thought I would throw my 1/2 a cent in here on this one. I know how maddening this can be - heat issues. One year, my bike kept taking a puke - spewing radiator fluid - if I did any riding that wasn't out on the highway - and even then it would sometimes sound like I was frying bacon under the seat - boiling water sounds. Anyway, I fought with it and fought with it - even took it to my mechanic - not a stealership - good guy. Tried everything then talked to one of the chaps overseas in email and he told me he had similar issues and after replacing damn near everything on his bike, it turned out to be the radiator cap. So I checked mine and wa - la!!! No more puking. It may not be your problem but it's something to keep in mind or check - radiator caps are cheap. I also bought a cooler sensor - but never installed it - plan to one of these days anyway. I was told the zx - 10 senser is I think 5 degrees cooler, so that's the one I got - if I remember right - I'll have to dig it out and check the numbers and stuff if any one is interested. Later.
 
Guys sorry for delay in follow up but this is what I found out....The Temp sensor in the Rad (part # 27010-1180) only turns the fan on if the coolant temperature exceeds 97C with the bike turned off, like when parked after a long ride on a hot day. This sensor on my bike has a broken wire right at the point where it comes out of the sensor so its shot. The other sensor up on the Thermostat housing marked 110 ( Part # 27010-1188) is the one that turns the fan on when the engine is running and is very hot like in stop and go traffic. After I took this sensor out of the housing and cleaned all the crud off it including the threads, I reinstalled it. At first I didn't think it was going to work but after letting the bike idle while playing with the carbs, it kicked on the fan. I was surprised how quiet the fan is with the engine runnig...you can barely hear it over the engine noise.
The other sensor on the thermostat housing is Part # 27010-1191. This sensor as far as I can tell turns the Temperature waning light on and has a higher temp setting than the other 2 sensors so if the light comes on it means the other 2 sensors have failed to bring the fan on and you are about to have some serious over heating problems.

Hope I have all this right and this description helps others with overheating issues.
 
...and if the engine temp sensor, oil temp sensor or Tach are failing, the Temp light will flicker!!!! Sucks when you want to take a quick blast, and then all the sudden the light starts flickering at 100+ MPH!!! Kind of freaks you out and makes you think you just blew something!! Glad it was just a sensor!!
 
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