the "proper" technique gettin the carbs back on

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So, I spent the money on new carb/air box boots(really was money well spent) the rubber is very pliable and easy to work with but thats not my problem....I still cant get it together...do you put the spring clamps on first and than try to stretch the boots over the carb throats or boots first and try to pull the springs on the boots? also does any one have a parts diagram showing which boots go where?I didnt pay attention to their position when i pried the old ones off and i already have the new ones on and i think i screwed it up..the boots don't seem to line up with the carb throats, i know this is something i could figure out, but i rather someone just tell me how to do it.. i always like copying off my neighbor :D
 
can't say for the 1k, but, i know on my 900, on the airbox, between 1& 2 there is a molded plastic line, & the same between 3 & 4. on your carb rubber tubes, there should be a flat side to each to accomidate the molded lines in airbox. give that a look, as far as the retainer springs. once you have the tubes on the airbox, but slide them twards the airbox, once you have carbs on, & tubes completely around the carbs, then move the retaining springs into the notch at the end of tubes around the carbs. make sure everything is in the tubes, both front & rear of carbs. i made the mistake of not making sure there were no air leaks, & my bike did'nt run rite, until zlmark, & wuputt pointed this out to me ! try this, hopefully it'll help you ! CHRIS
 
You also have to put the rubbers in at a certain pattern. You have 2 sets and they are 1&3, 2&4 so the firing order is 1243 so the rubbers go in this pattern. 1&3 are on the outside edges and 2&4 are on the inside. Hope this helps. I think it's 1225 that is 1&3 and 1224 that are 2&4.
 
The carb holders clamps(carb side) need to be loosened farther than you think. The carbs will pop right in when they are loose enough. Do not overtighten the carb clamps. Also the carb holders are slightly angled, make sure they are clocked correctly.

Now on to the airbox boots. The #1 & #3 go on the #1 & #3 cylinders, and the #2 & #4 go on the #2 & #4 cylinders. These need to be installed before the carbs go in. Just to clarify, the #1 cylinder is the left side of the bike then #2,#3 and #4. There is a groove to seat the airbox rubbers in that has a notch, you can't go wrong.

I use a radiator hose tool to pull the airbox boots around the carbs as I try to pull the airbox forward. Once these are all seated throw the airbox bolts in to hold it in place and then slide the spring clamps into place. The inside carbs are kinda tough but very do-able. If you are jetting the bike plan on a saturday!
 
I can't say that it's proper, but the way I ended up doing it was to install the airbox without the bolts. Then put the carbs into the holders on the engine side. Then I folded the airbox rubbers and installed from the inside of the airbox, through the air filter access panel. I started with #4 and worked my way out. After everything is in place, install the airbox bolts and tighten everything up. It's not very comfy if you have large hands, but if you are fortunate to have small hands, there will be a lot fewer swear words involved. WD40 on the mating surfaces helps, too.
 
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