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ZL 1000 Brake Project

R. J. Feb 19, 2015

  1. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I received my complete GALFER line kit from the ZL Store today. I also bought all new rubber components to rebuild all 3 brake calibers & the clutch slave cyn.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015
  2. madmanncr500

    madmanncr500 Well-Known Member

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    Are those black braided brake lines? I likie!!!:thumbsup: I did the silver braided but I like the looks of those black ones!:headbang:
     
  3. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Yes they are black. I wanted to stay stock looking AMSP. I installed them today. They was not marked as which end goes were. I just done them one at a time not to confuse myself. :laughing7: It was not all that hard to do.
     
  4. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: My switch for my rear brake light for the foot brake keeps coming out of adjustment. Could not tighten the phillip screws so I put SS allen cap screws in. Also I found the best way to adjust the switch is to place the stopper plate all the way away from the switch then slide it until it comes in contact with the switch. Next slide it until the brake light goes out then tighten the 2 screws. If you adjust it to far your foot can be resting on the brake pedal & the brake light can accidentally come on.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 22, 2015
  5. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Here is a pic of one of three brake calibers that I put new seals in & new rubber dust boots. Also all 3 new bleeder dust caps & a new one on the clutch slave cyn. New parts are on the left & old are on the right. I cleaned the 3 pistons on my buffer. They came out looking new. No pits, no pealing or rust except the front left one. It may need replaced. I used EBC brake pads. They was $30 a set. The master cyns look good for being almost 30 years old. First I wiped it out with paper towels. Then I used Q tips. I then used brake parts cleaner. Last I blew it out with 30 lbs of air pressure. When using air make curtain that you do not damage the lever plunger Assembly.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  6. Jarney

    Jarney Strip Warrior Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    That mounting hole doesn't look very good in the second pic - don't let those little pieces fall down in there. Later.
     
  7. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Are you talking about the hole on the left side of the master cyn. The threads are fine. A shadow is cast in the hole making the threads looking on the weak side.
     
  8. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    I think Jarney is talking about the 2 little alu-pieces on the right thread inside...should be removed!
     
  9. Jarney

    Jarney Strip Warrior Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    Yeah, I'm referring to the right side where it looks like the threads are partially broken. See the arrow in the pic below. Later.


    [​IMG]
     

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  10. madmanncr500

    madmanncr500 Well-Known Member

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    :yeahthat:8-O Holy crap....how that happin?
     
  11. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Thanks guys. I didn't even notice that. I'll have to open it back up to see if they are loose. Not sure what caused that. That screw was much tighter than the rest.
     
  12. Harriminator

    Harriminator Senior Member

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    That was the reason: too tight! Esp. for small threads - better use a torque key...takes a little bit longer but avoids annoyance.
     
  13. 87kawzl

    87kawzl Supporting Member

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    Went with the smoke color myself, enjoy the feel over stock. Did the clutch too.
    Looking good RJ, hope that boss holds up for ya. Good eyes guys!
     
  14. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Those small pieces are OK. I could not move them so I left it alone. I have another clutch master cyn coming soon just encase.
     
  15. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Since the SS braided lines are smaller in O. D. I used fuel line for the 2 brackets on the rear brake line.
     

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  16. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I used awesome orange & a brass wire brush to clean all the calibers components. It worked rather well. The one on the right is before cleaning.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  17. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: I ended up replacing my front left caliber piston. It is pitted/corroded. See pic # 3. It cost $72. I do remember it sticking once in a great while. I also went to smaller inside diameter rubber grommets for the front lower brake line brackets/holders. Pic # 1 shows the OEM ones on the left & the replacements ones on the right. The O. D. is smaller on the S. S. braided brake lines.
     

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    Last edited: May 17, 2016
  18. madmanncr500

    madmanncr500 Well-Known Member

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    Looking good:thumbsup:.......Just like they told us in the Navy..."ATTENTION TO DETAIL" The little things add up!:headbang:
     
  19. R. J.

    R. J. Supporting Member

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    :hello: Do things right the first time even if it takes longer is what my Dad would say. I started 6 weeks ago but most of it was waiting on parts. It all went together as planned & after all the different things I replaced & adjusted it all panned out good. I've put on over 300 miles since buttoning it all up. My bike seems to run a bit cooler now. It was 88* out when I left for Daytona a 11 this morning & cruising at 80 MPH my temp gauge read 208*F all the way in on I 4. The fan kicked on at 232* while in traffic & when shutting off the key it comes on at 208*. I spent more time bleeding the brake system & clutch than adjusting the valves. I used 12 ozs of DOT 4 fluid. I remember another member said he used over a gal. Who was that.
     
  20. furchin

    furchin ZL-OA Co-owner Staff Member Administrator Super Moderator Supporting Member

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    "Who was that?"---------------Scooby
     

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