ZL1000 Carb Holders

prfixer

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I found a set of Ninja 900 carb holders pretty reasonable and decided to see if they would work on the 1000. I'll post pics below and let you 1000 owners decide for yourselves. I have plans to put the 34mm carbs on the San Diego bike when I start that project and that's what started me wondering. The 1st 2 pics are of the carbs(they're actually Ninja carbs, but I think they're the same dimensions as the stock 1000 carbs. If someone out there has both sets and knows the dimensions are different, post it here and we'll see if that makes a difference), with the stock holders in a 1000 frame and engine. I placed the screwdriver on top of the carbs between the carbs and frame to serve as a reference. It's not exerting pressure on the carbs in anyway.

The 3rd and 4th pic are of the Ninja holders mounted in place of the 1000 holders. They are definitely not as bent as the originals, but it doesn't look like it should be a problem to me. Note the screwdriver in both sets of pics and that the airbox is attached to both configurations.

I found an aftermarket supplier for the Ninja holders. They were $28 for the set.
 

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exactly what dimensions do you want to know?

if I remember correctly the tops of the ninja carbs are actually lower than the zl1 tops but I would have to take a look in the morning to verify that as I have a few sets of each. Just let me know exactly what measurements you want?
 
exactly what dimensions do you want to know?

if I remember correctly the tops of the ninja carbs are actually lower than the zl1 tops but I would have to take a look in the morning to verify that as I have a few sets of each. Just let me know exactly what measurements you want?

I just wanted to make sure about what I was saying about the clearance between the carbs and the frame. They are MAYBE 3/16" closer to the frame with the Ninja holders then they are with the stockers. I just didn't want any of the 1000 riders to go spend money on Ninja holders if they really wouldn't work for them. How much clearance do you have between the top of the carb and the frame on a 1000 with its' original carbs? I'll measure the Ninja setup to compare.
 
I just wanted to make sure about what I was saying about the clearance between the carbs and the frame. They are MAYBE 3/16" closer to the frame with the Ninja holders then they are with the stockers. I just didn't want any of the 1000 riders to go spend money on Ninja holders if they really wouldn't work for them. How much clearance do you have between the top of the carb and the frame on a 1000 with its' original carbs? I'll measure the Ninja setup to compare.

Ok I will measure in the morning top of zl carb to frame with zl intake boots
 
Ok on a zl1000 with stock intake boots there is 1 inch from top center of zx carbs to the bottom of the frame (its a very tight inch if I push the rule in it will just barely make it like a valve adjustment tight)
With the zl carbs it has just about 1/32 play from just behind the dimple on top of the carb/ but if it was flat topped it would probably be about the same (the dimple keeps me from getting a perfect measurement)

The silver rule is one inch wide
 

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I got 13/16" from the same spot using ZX carbs and holders. I don't know if that would cause a problem for you ZL1000 guys as far as clearing everything through that clearance. But if your carb holders are crap, maybe these would work as a suitable replacement.

I'm going to try the same thing on a 900 motor and frame when I get the bike from New Mexico back here to see how the ZX900 holders/carb arrangement fits on it.
 
There is definately enuff play with the air box to take up the difference and make that work. As for the zx carbs on the 900 its also doable!
 
I am going to take the stock 32's and pods off of the New Mexico bike and put the airbox and 34mm's on it to see how it runs. These ZX carbs were rebuilt by Rick with internals to replicate a ZL1000's.

I know Markus was looking for some different holders for his 1k swap, maybe these would work for his conversion.

Here is the link to the supplier of the holders-

http://www.carbkitscapital.com/motorcycle_carb_kit_main.php?make=Kawasaki

I had e-mailed them awhile back to see if they could/would them for the ZL's with no success. Maybe someone with more persuasive skills can get them going on that!!
 
Dave,
Looking at pic#4 View attachment 1757 I can see the top of the carb throat isn't fully seated. I would say the carbs are forced downward. Can you clamp them down straight and still fit the airbox for us?
 
Dave,
Looking at pic#4 View attachment 1757 I can see the top of the carb throat isn't fully seated. I would say the carbs are forced downward. Can you clamp them down straight and still fit the airbox for us?

That's a good eye. Mark! You are correct. I didn't notice when I pushed the airbox boots onto the carbs that the carbs were forced back out of the holders like that. Here are some more pics of a couple of different arrangements, none of which seem to be the answer. The 1st 2 are with the airbox as far up and forward that I can get it and still line it up with its' mounting holes in the frame. You can see the carb to airbox boots are now not a good seal. The 2nd 2 are with things lined up as far as the holders-carbs-boots-airbox need to be, but now the airbox won't get to its' mounting holes. I guess the search will go on for a suitable replacement for the hard/cracked holders that we all have or will have soon!
 

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If there's not a large change in the angle of the carbs this would still be a solution for the guys running pods though - right? Kudos for keeping your eye out for other bike parts that may work on ours and experimenting and trying to find a solution. Later.
 
Well, 3 more pics for your consideration! Here are the Ninja carb holders, 34mm Ninja carbs, ZL1000 boots attached to the New Mexico bike. I'm more stubborn then I am anal and I wanted those carbs on that bike! I ended up using the 1&3 boots in 2&4 holes and vice-versa. The airbox still isn't aligned where it would have to be for the 2 bolts, but it's close enough that I can easily safety wire it firmly in place.
 

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Now take a dremmel and cut some plastic away so you can use the bolt with a larger washer and it will hold tight. No need to wire it unless your anal about cutting up the mounting hole some?
 
Now take a dremmel and cut some plastic away so you can use the bolt with a larger washer and it will hold tight. No need to wire it unless your anal about cutting up the mounting hole some?
You nailed it, Paul! I have a thing about leaving original as is in case it needs to go back to original someday.
 
Elongating the hole some will not affect making it appear original or function as original except you will always have to use the wider washer no matter what carbs you have on at the time. So only the shape of the hole and the washer will be NOT Stock. For me I live with the bigger washer and elongated hole/ its a small price to pay for the gain in performance.
 
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