Alternative brakes?

[ARCHIVE_gehang]

Need help reading wireing diagram in ZL1000 manual....

I'm looking at the zl 1000 wiring diagram allough it's all greek to me...

I'm having a serious wiring issue, that I imagine has to do with only 1 wire, but i'm trying to find that one wire...

While riding, obiouslly most noticable at night, I lose most of my electrical. It effects everything except the turn signals.

It will work fine for a few days, then go down for a few hours, some times down for days, but then go days working just fine. Since it effects so many parts I imagine its one of the first power lead wires.

The start button works, and the turn signals work front and back(including hazzard flashers) what does NOT work is (console lights, tachometer, horn, headlight(high or low), breaklights, kickstand safety switch(kill when in gear)....

I bought a fuse kit and replaced all the fuses in the junction box so i'm sure it's not a fuse....

If someone can read a wiring diagram i'll email you a blown up copy if needed. I need help finding out what the turn signals(and hazzard lights) have seperated from everything else. There has to be somewhere down the line where the power spits off for the turn signal, then I can have a good idea on where to search for a wire break/melt at...

Clueless and in need of help,
Gehan G.

 

[ARCHIVE_Bbond2000]

CHECK IT OUT

Hey Gehan;
I've got a wiring diagram of my own. I'll take some time to look it too.
Since it is intermitant I expect it is either a nearly broken wire , likely a ground. Or possibly a corroded portion of the fuse box.
In my experience, troubles like this seem to materialize under the fuel tank harness. Often at a plug in point.
I'll have a look at the diagram just the same.
Keep thinking ground wire though. Hum.

 

[ARCHIVE_gehang]

Thanks..

That would be much appricated. I figure pretty much the same, a connection is loose some where, or a wire got fraid or something.
There is such a mess of wires under the gas tank, and a lot of them are sheathed so I can't tell heads or tails.
That's why I'm hoping someone can read a wireing diagram better then me. I'm thinking that since the problem is so massive it's probably one of the major wires near the fuse box or battery and should be easy to spot on the diagram.
Since the turn signals work, and the start button still works that should also be a major clue. Just trace back from there and see where they all meet... I know, it sounds a lot easier then it is, I deffentlly give thanks to those genuses who can read those charts...


Unforturnetlly i'm cluess when it comes to electrics...

Any help would be very much appriciated,
Thanks,
Gehan G.

 

[ARCHIVE_TheELIMINUTTER]

Well Im Not much of an Electrical Wiz Myself, But I,ve seen some Posts about the Fuse Box breaking solder Joints[ This is in the Sealed Back Part of the Fuse Box] Check the Old Discusion Forum on the .org Site, Pretty sure its where I saw It, You Might Find Some Info there, Later Rocky

 

[ARCHIVE_Jarney]

Electrical

Hello gehang,
Another way to track down the problem might be to wait until it happens, then turn the key on, and using a volt meter, disconnect various connectors(like the ones under the tank near the steering stem or in various places near the fuse box - try and go to each side of the fuse while it's still in the fuse box) and check to see which ones have power and which ones don't. Put your ground from the volt meter on the frame somewhere and use the positive lead of the meter to probe around looking for wires with voltage. If you can figure out where a wire begins and ends you can also use an ohm meter to check to see if the wire has a break in it or is burnt. Intermittent problems are hard to find. More than likely, as others have said it's a semi-broken wire somewhere near the main power supply or a faulty ground near the source of power. Wish I could tell you something that would help more. Good luck. Later.

 

[ARCHIVE_Bill4]

gehang, I'm looking at the wiring diagram and it sounds like you have been over the basic checks. I have a question: does the engine still run when the problem occurs? I did notice that you said the starter button works which I am assuming that the engine cranks but does it run? If it does, according to what I'm seeing on the diagram, I might check the Brown wire coming from the alternator that is feeding some of the "areas" where you are having problems. Also, there appears to be a connector coming from the alternator where the brown wire connects to brown and a black wire on the alt side and a white wire on the harness side, check this connector out real good. I wish I could tell you where exactly these wires and connector are on your bike but I have a 900 and am not sure if they are the same. I may be out in left field here but I hope it might help.
Good luck, Bill4

 

[ARCHIVE_gehang]

runs good....

The bike runs fine. When i'm going down the road the only way I'd know it happend during the day is becuse I see the tach go down to 0, at night of course I lose all my lights. As far as engine everything is ok. Starts from button, runs, and stops from handlebar stop switch.
I had to ride home from work the other night with my flashers on (not fun)!

I know this is a big safty hazzard and a possible fine from police also. I talked to a dealership about repairing it and they wanted a base $200 to diagnose it and a possible $200 after to repair it.

Unfortunetlly I don't have an extra 400 to throw down on some wire that I could probably patch my self with a soldering iron and some tape. If only I knew what I was looking for... I plan on going though what I can with a volt meter tonight. i'll post any info tomorrow or later on tonight..


Thank for everyones advice. It is very helpfull and very much appricated,

Gehan G.

 

[ARCHIVE_gehang]

hmmm...

I tried some stuff with a volt meter but not being very electic savvy I wasn't able to deduce much. I did notice that my main gound seems to be connected good. I can get a good check from the negitive battery term. to the frame...

Also I found out sunday that my alternator does not work when this is going on... I figure that what's ever causing this electrial problem also causes the battery not to re-charge. My lights went out on friday and I didn't think much about it becuse it's been happing so much lately. I did notice that it seemed to be down for a while. Usually it's short episodes of 10 or so minutes. This time it was down when I rode friday, and all day saturday. Sunday I rode to the gas station, just fine, filled up with the bike off and key out of the ignition, paid, came out to restart and my bike was dead. I got a jump and was able to ride to my dealer/repair shop. I went in and talked to him and by the time I got back out 10 minutes later the bike was dead again. He put my battery on a charger for a few hours and I was able to start it and ride home just fine.

When I got up this morning for work the lights were working and it's running fine. But I know next time the lights go out my battery is going to slowly drain out if it lasts more then 2 days...

This is very frustrating. If anyone can help, maybe the alternator will be another good clue!

Thanks for any info you can provide!
Gehan G.

 

[ARCHIVE_knightkadosh]

Gehan G., for whatever it’s worth…here’s my 2-cents worth…with some personal experience in the field of electrical, and electronics…

…I have had some similar intermittent electrical problems myself from time to time on my ZL-900, although almost all these problems have now gone away. What I discovered, and then finally did in my particular case, was to notice that corrosion inside the wiring harness plug end terminals, and at the junction box connection points, had taken its toll after 20-years, this mild corrosion was at nearly all the wiring harness connector terminal plug ends, and at nearly all the junction box connection points, I went after these possibilities first, rather then believe broken, frayed, burned or bird caged wires hidden from my sight were to be the culprit, although a distinct possibility. In my opinion, and for what it costs in time and money, this first step I offer simply eliminates most of these simple, but irritating possibilities, allowing you to go deeper, if deemed necessary.

I would start out by making sure all direct battery connections are clean from corrosion, and are securely connected, next buy a can of “GOOD” electrical contact cleaner, high flash point, most of these evaporate quickly, and PLEASE, as a safety precaution, “DISCONNECT” the battery while performing these cleaning procedures.

Follow all electrical wiring harnesses to their terminating points, especially at the junction box, disconnect these plug ends one at a time, and inspect and clean the male and female contacts and terminals thoroughly with a good electrical contact cleaner. You are looking for corrosion, dirt, or bent and loose pin connections, or broken or loose wire to pin connections. You do not necessarily have to disassembly the pins from the plug ends, simply plugging them in and out several times while spraying and soaking these connection points with contact cleaner tends to remove surface corrosion and restore these to good solid connections. This, at the very least, eliminates these connections as failure points. Inside the junction box, make sure you mark the relays and connectors for identifying purposes and proper reinstallation, then pull the relays and the connector plugs, one at a time, straight out of the junction box, and include them in the connection cleaning and inspection process, these usually have locking arms holding them in, release these locking arms. Try to be as thorough as possible. If this does not fix the problem, the internal parts of the junction box become highly suspect. If necessary, later on, the testing of the diode assemblies and relays can easily be done with your VTVM meter, provided what I initially suggest here does nothing to correct the current problem, this testing procedure can be gone over later.

Good hunting,

Brian

 

[vinny]

Has anyone upgraded their disks / calipers ?
I am looking at some 6 pots from other Kwaks and would like to know if anyone has already done this ?

Vin

 

[Southernstyle]

Same here.
Later,
SS

 

[madhatter]

Same here....................

 

[vinny]

There is not a lot that you can do with the ZL front brakes - as they have a small clearance between the rear of the caliper and the spoke of the front wheel.
So you would need to find a better caliper that has a floating rear section OR buy some of the adaptor plates that ZRXMOPAR was selling.

 

[madhatter]

What about replacing the zl fork with a concours fork, or zxr or some kind of z fork that had an upgrade to it. That would cost a bit more money but I know that if it had the braking power and ride I would look into it. As long as I can keep the front end down low, as I have a lowering spring on mine. I know that there are interchangeable parts for the ZL, concours, and zx, I saw mark

 

[vinny]

Yes you can swap the forks out - if you modify the yokes / stem. Then you can try to use other brakes.