Spraying my bike

[ARCHIVE_joealso]

zl900 rear tire opinions

Time to talk about rear tires for the 900 again...did someone say that the 170/80-15 fits fine as a replacement to the 160? No problems with the width? The height shouldn't change cuz they're still 80's, right? Rideability? Handling? There just seem to be more choices with the 170's.

Take a look at these links and let me know what you think. Thanks!!!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT


"V" Rated http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/170-...35601QQitemZ4585192541QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...35578QQitemZ4590959299QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bran...35578QQitemZ4609697297QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

I can tell you this much. The dunlop will last you about a season if your lucky. My buddy has one on his harley and they don't last even on a harley! I have the ME880's and love em.

 

[ARCHIVE_joealso]

I can tell you this much. The dunlop will last you about a season if your lucky. My buddy has one on his harley and they don't last even on a harley! I have the ME880's and love em.

Yeah, I have a Dunlop on there now and i don't think it lasted more than about 4000 miles (actually less, but i've been riding on it practically bald for a while).

Any comments on the wider 70 series on the ME880?

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Hmm, now your making me get out of my chair and go see what size my tire is in the cold garage!!!!,,lol no problem BRB!

 

[ARCHIVE_zlMark]

Joe,

170/80 and 100/90 both ME880's

The back does not have anymore room for more tire. it's 1/8 away from the swingarm.

 

[ARCHIVE_furchin]

tires

Joe, Your ride height will definatly change to a higher sitting position, slightly leaning forward with the 170 on the rear. I have a 170 on one of my 1000's and a 160 on the other 1000 and let me tell you that there is a difference. For me the smaller 160 is a much more comfortable ride position. But hey, to each his own. Martin

 

[ARCHIVE_joealso]

Thanks, RedHatNeo.

Martin,

What's the model of the 160? Not a Metlzer is it?

 

[ARCHIVE_joealso]

What's the model of the 160? Not a Metlzer is it?

Or Metzler, even.

 

[ARCHIVE_Rocket]

Joe,
just to confirm and further explain Furchin's point about the change in ride height (Furchin, I hope you don't mind).

The ".../80-..." is a ratio of the tyre's height compared to it's width expressed as a percentage. So as they are both "80" series (i.e. the height is 80% of their width), if the replacement tyre is 10mm wider (160mm to 170mm) then one can expect the wider tyre's height to be 8mm higher than the narrower tyre (80% x 10mm = 8mm).

To easily visualise the differences and a few other changes, speed variations, drive ratios etc, try this link to an .xls spreadsheet that works for both cars and bikes. I use it every time I consider a new set of tyres for my car and bike/s (I think I've posted this link or similar before but here it is again anyway).

http://www.digest.net/bmw/archive/v8/msg02324.html

If any of you download this and try it, or can compare it to something similar, please let the rest of us know what you think of this spreadsheet(and/or any others available on the net).

I try.

 

[ARCHIVE_joealso]

Thanks Rocket. Now i understand what those numbers mean.

Great link too. I just have to go look for that offset # on the wheel, but it's too early in the am and too cold at the moment to do that now.

Thanks!

 

[ARCHIVE_Rocket]

...welcome.

I wouldn't worry too much about the offset, that has more to do with changing the rim and the effect the new offset will have with regards to installation and steering on a car (i.e. scrub radius etc).

 

[acp]

Hey guys, I've decided to try and do a paintjob on my bike myself, rather than pay someone else to try and interpret my ideas. My girlfriend's dad is going to lend me an air compressor and spraygun, so that I can find out if I'm any good before spending too much on my own kit. When I start my new shifts I'm going to partition off a bit of my garage now that it's been cleared. Then I'm going to go to a breaker and buy a spare tank and some pieces of metal to practice with. I'm going to get a tank with a couple of small dents in it so that I can practice using Bondo, as my tank has a very small dent on the front right hand corner.

Anyone got any advice or tips for me?

Cheers

Adam

 

[Stormy]

hey acp, what sort of paint are you going to use, two pack or acrylic?

The key to a good paint job is keep the paint surface clean, I mean grease and dust free, use "prep-sol" on the metal first, it's a acetone based pre-painting cleaner so you don't get "siliconization" or "Fish-eyes" as the paint goes on.

Siliconization http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/fisheyes/index.cfm

If you are painting acrylic, I use a 8 second mix, you add small amounts (10 - 15mL) of thinner to the paint and when stirring with a stick, pull the stick clear of the mixing jar and let it run down the stick back into the mixing jar and count how long it takes from when you pull it from the mix til it stops running and starts to drip, if it takes longer than 8 seconds add some more thinner, if it is quicker than 8 seconds add more paint. easy.

Keep the surface to be painted and the paint at a temp around 18 - 25c with low humidity, prior to spraying to ensure good flow from the gun and a fast and even drying time, too cold or too humid and the paint will "Bloom" or "Blush" (water condensation attaches itself to the paint droplets as they are travelling to the paint surface, due to the kelvinization effect as the paint goes through the small aperture of the spray nozzle). Kelvinization is the effect of heated air or liquid, at high pressure giving up it's thermal energy, as it passes through a small aperture, therefore super-cooling).

Too hot and the paint will dry as it travels through the air and it will form a moist, dust of paint particles.

Painting problems and troubleshooting can be found at the url below.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/

Mick.

 

[acp]

Thanks for the info Mick.

Hmm.. 18-25c? Looks like I'll be needing a garage heater then. I'll make sure to get one with a thermostat so I can control the temperature.

The only downside of doing this is that my Dad has said he's going to increase my rent if I start to do it as a business

 

[Stormy]

...you can pre-heat the surface and the paint if you want, to stop blooming, just over skin temp will do, too hot and the paint can boil, then you'll have bubbles forming in the paint sub-surface, which is worse than blooming, you've got to strip it back and start again. If the surface is cold to the touch, don't attempt it. If painting with a spray can, pop it in your pocket for a couple of minutes and you'll be right.

Prep in the morning and paint in the early afternoon on a nice warm to very warm summers day is the trick and wear a mask, those paint fumes will give you big head spins after a while.

Blooming is a rarity, but not uncommon. Basically if you feel cold and you need to put a jumper on, it's too cold to paint. If it does bloom, leave it till it's dry, sand the paint back a bit till the milkyness disappears and you get a solid colour and spray again with quick, long even strokes. I prefer a nice wide spray with a thin delivery, that way you don't get streaks or layers in the paint, especially if spraying metalic semi-clear coloured paint. Solid colours give better results.

For curved surfaces do 7-10 coats of colour, then 10-15 coats of clear for a nice deep, wet look.

I've been painting cars, bikes with acrylic, (I don't like the look and spray of two pack, plus it's messy to use and clean-up after and it chips way too easily) for on and off for 30 years now and it's just a feel thing that comes with experience. I'm a cabinet-maker by trade and I spray laquer custom-made wooden furniture too, it's just second nature to me now.

 

[acp]

Thanks for the great advice Mick.

A mask was one of the first things on my list of things to get. Along with a spare tank to practice on before taking my bike off the road.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[Stormy]

Grab a respirator mask with removable canisters rather than a paper mask, the paper mask will stop the paint particles from getting in your lungs, but it won't stop the fumes.

You'll be alright, spray painting with a gun isn't easy, but practise will make perfect, then once you've got the hang of it, you'll have a life-time skill that's very handy to have.

Make sure you get a good quality spray gun, an in-line water separator for the compressor and make sure you drain the tank of air and trapped water every-time you've finished using it, so the tank doesn't rust inside and clog the nozzle with rust flakes, to say nothing of the tank eventually rusting out and blowing up.

Keep the spray gun spotlessly clean, inside and out, especially the little breather hole in the top of the paint pot, when finished, pull the nozzle and the needle out of the gun and soak the whole lot overnight in a bucket of thinners, as theres nothing worse than in the middle of spraying a job and the nozzle keeps blocking up from old chunks of dried up paint or it spits it at the nice new and wet paint surface or you can't adjust spray fan width properly or the paint just dribbles out.

I know this is a lot to take in, but it'll be second nature to you eventually.

Mick.

 

[acp]

Thanks again Mick. I already had my eye on a mask with the removable canisters. I'll let you know how it all goes.

Adam