stick coils?

:hello: Yes we would. :notworthy:. We have very few people doing wright ups now a days. Make sure to include pics & part #s. Also what year & model the up graded parts came from.
 
Just to answer the question, the few tenths of an ohm resistance over will not be noticeable unless you are in a seriously cold climate. Resistance decreases with heat and increases when cold. Having your coils mounted in the head like our bikes will (new bikes use them in the head) heat them up significantly decreasing resistance for example, 1.5 ohms cold tested to 1.2 maybe even 1.0 after heated up from running. You do not want to go lower than factory 1.8 ohms or you will risk overcurrent damage to ignition electronics. All that said, I see it as not necessary to spend the extra money buying 4 resistors and wiring them in parallel pairs from the factory ignition wiring when you can wire in series and have the resistance match up well.
 
I've acquired a set of denso 129700-4150 from a 01 gsxr600 and a harness from a 06 cbr1000. The coils look about the same length as the zg14 coils if not shorter so I hope to avoid messing around with number 2 too much. I'll be gutting the harness and doing a nice loom like Mark did and spade connectors. I'll be detailing every step with pictures with the engine in the bike and PAIR equipped. I'll submit my draft to you guys when it's done.
 
Did it today. Very nice results. I dropped it in the yard taking it out of shed though and now have the shorty clutch handle mod as well as the leaking cylinder. ****.20180531_195818.jpg 20180531_201138.jpg
 
At least the tank doesn't have a dimple from the signal...hope ya get many years of good service from the COP conversion.
 
"Resistance decreases with heat and increases when cold."
"Having your coils mounted in the head like our bikes will (new bikes use them in the head) heat them up significantly decreasing resistance for example"

Are you sure? My understanding was that it was the opposite!

I was always taught that heat is the enemy of current and the hotter a conductor gets, the more current it needs to keeps the voltage up.

Hense they try to cool superconductors to absolute zero to try to get virtually no resistance.
 
Completed the conversation today. Too rainy to test on the road but it went fairly straightforward like the thread shows. I will add that on #2 & #3 I used dialectic grease on the coil shafts to make the bushing slide easier and trimmed 1/4" off ends (just to the first inside bump where it seals against the plug) to make install easier. Slide bushing towards the top, tilt it horizontal and fit it to the inside of the frame tube and it will find the top of the plug with some jiggering. I worked the bushing down into the valve cover hole with my cotter pin removal pick.

PXL_20220717_174721423.jpg PXL_20220717_174655765.MP.jpg
Used the 2X as a fixture to make harness lengths correct. Labeled wires, plugs and coils with the P-touch label makerPXL_20220717_174657723.jpg PXL_20220717_152858913.MP.jpg
 
Instead of decals that eventually fall off I used a soldering iron to burn I II III and IIII into the plugs.
 
:hello: KEV: Nice job!!! :notworthy:. Which KAW did you use the stick coils from. MACH: Could you PM me your Shops address and phone #. Also your hours of operation. Thanks.
 
05 ZX10 harness
09 ZX10 coils, P/N matches the early ones on the list.

Cheapest this time was to buy from separate sellers on ebay. ~$45 to the door.
 
I know this is an old post, but was there ever an answer if you would use the original non-resistor spark plugs only or could you use the newer Iridium resistor plugs?
 
I've gotten good life out of the std plugs. I doubt you will see any real benefits from a high dollar high mileage plug change.
 
The stick style ignition upgrade has already been done on the ZL900 that I just bought so I figured I’d see if anyone has ran Iridium plugs and seen any difference.
 
I agree that you probably will not see any benefit!
 
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