Billy
Well-Known Member
wOW WTF ! Just cause i had a tapping, found out bout reed valve gaskets forgot to put them in . Maybe 1 or both just let loose . check that also.
ZL1000 engine noise
- Thread starter furchin
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- hydraulic lock hydro lock
Still have a few things to go over after I get up this afternoon so I hope that I can narrow it down somewhat. talked to Paul yesterday and he asked, "what do you want to do with it?" I told him I really want to load the f'n bike in my truck and drop it off at his house and let him fix the **** thing.
well I went to a friend of mine who has been a mechanic for around 40 years. He has worked on almost everything that has an engine on it. We listened to the you tube video while in his office. After about 10 seconds into the vid he says I've heard enough, shut it off. I've heard this sound too many times. What??? Any how he feels the noise is a dropped exhaust valve that is hitting on top of the piston. Said I know this is not what you wanted to hear but you'll be tearing it down. Thanks buddy.
golddrakul
Senior Member
Easy check, a cylinder with a dropped exhaust valve will not have any compression; also should show up if you pull the valve cover. Another check is to put that cylinder on TDC of the compression stroke and force air into the spark plug hole [valves should be closed]; see if the air comes pouring out the exhaust.
I use my wife’s Stethoscope to find a strange engine noise. I wrap it in a T-Shirt to keep it clean, but she still gets PO’ed when I ask her to rev ‘Lil Girl’ up while I perform acoustical diagnostics with her work tools. Before she became a nurse I would use a ½” wooden dowel about 15” long. The dowel is low tech, but it will work at finding engine noise!
vinny
Senior Member
I use a piece of dowel or similar. But I have seen that someone has used a short piece of tubing - like a hosepipe!
paulfun
"King Of The 1/4mi (Internally Stock)"
You should have seen a totally dropped valve when you had the cover off. So it must be sticking real bad when running and slamming shut or getting tapped by the piston as it rises and then slamming shut.
Man, that sucks, let us know what is found once it's apart, good luck with the repair - hope it hasn't done any more damage. Later.
Bob, checked compression, 102 on #1 cylinder. All others are good. Put air in one time and had a small amount coming out of pipes. Not sure if I had tdc correct. Will be doing again just to double check things.
golddrakul
Senior Member
Doesn't sound like a totally dropped valve, Paulfun's suggestion of a sticky valve is a possibility. Could also be a slightly bent valve, piston pushes it back up and the valve then attempts to seat/seal. Sounds like time to pull the tank, remove the valve cover, and manually turn it over so you can watch the valves. I'd recommend that you watch all of the cylinders, the low compression on #1 may be a separate issue from the noise. Don't want to fixate on one symptom being the cause of everything.
Just out of curiosity, what's the compression on the good cylinders?
#2-140, #3-155, #4-175. I think #4 is out of line but did not check it again 'cause compression was there so I figured I'm good.
Prostreet
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a bent valve for sure with 102 lbs. After I pull the head, I would replace the valve and have the other checked (maybe a valve job) Good luck, Martin.
paulfun
"King Of The 1/4mi (Internally Stock)"
I agree its best not to fixate on one problem. In this case he checked valve adjustment and spun engine manually and could not see a problem with the valves. this is actually not uncommon with a stiky valve, sometimes you just cant see it unless the cover is off and its running then you can see that the harmonics of the springs arent the same as the others giving you indication of the bad valve.
Other tests have been recomended as well, But IMHO its time to tear into this puppy and fix it up.
My recomendation is to get a zx1000 head and cams and have the valves freshend up then when its ready install it. He already has holeshots/timing advancer and a dial a jet kit on this one so why not make a bit more go since it will be down for repairs anyway.
Recomendation #2 is to find a lower mile zg head and cams on e-bay or something and swap it out and do a cyl leak down test before installing
PS martin the link you sent me for the connie head will bolt right on.
The only concern I have is the milage isnt listed in the add.
UPDATE: I hauled the bike out to ZLMarks on tuesday and met up with Mark and Gremlin. After firing the bike up and listening to it and further discussion about possible problems we decided to hook up an oil pressure gauge to check oil pressure. This would tell us if the possible problem was in the top or bottem of the engine. All checked out good on the pressure so we decided to pull the valve cover (2nd time) and pull the head off and check the top end. Problem found, #1 rod bent and apparantly hitting the crank on down stroke was making the metalic sound that I posted in the video. Hydro lock was the cause for sure. I will be putting pingel's on my other two 1000's to alieviate this future problem. A big thanks to Mark & Dale for working on this with my little assistance and for their future help in getting this bike back on the road. ZLMark has a picture of the bent rod but really not a reason to post as Jarney has a pic up in the same condition. Who will get their bike back on the road first???????
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f1nxlife
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hey martin,,,glad you found the problem.,,,,but im a little confused,,,what is HYDRO LOCK....and will this happen to my 1000 ???...is putting the pingle in going to keep that from happenning again,??,,im a little concerned,,thanks,,,brett
Excess fuel leaking into cylinder. Hit the starter swich and as the piston goes up on the compression stroke, it cannot compress the fuel. Something has to give, usually the rod.
No contest there - it will be you - hahaha. Mine is in boxes all over the garage, and it sounds like you've got the edge with the "A-team", aka: ZL Guru's, zlmark and gremlin, in your corner - hahaha. Glad you found the problem and good luck with the rebuild. It's amazing these things will run with bent rods and you may not even know it. Later.
Brett, to answer your question, YES, a pingel will stop this from happening on start up and as long as you remember to put the valve in the off position. This is when my stock valve got me, not sealing when bike is not running and fuel leaked into #1 cylinder. If your carb float valves are not sealing off you could get too much fuel with the pingel but no real concern of hydro lock while running.
Thanks Chris, I don't have any pics to post up, but who wants to post a pic of their non running bike? End result though will be a rebuilt engine by some of our gurus from the ZL world. Mark asked me if I wanted a 10 or 11 second bike and I told him that I am not commiting with a statement of do what you need to do. Hell, I might have to mortgage the house if I agreed to that.