Spark plug cap tear down & new wires & plugs

:hello: One thing that is most important is when after removing the 5 K ohm resistors is when cleaning the inside of the componet carrier plastic/ceramic insert is to use brake parts cleaner in a spray can that does not contain oil. Also when blowing out the inside of the spark plug caps with high pressure air do not get to close because you may fracture/implode the componet carrier. On the plastic/ceramic insert it is not needed to remove it from the rubber boot. Most likely you will damage it because it/they become brittle over time.
 
Something I didn't see mentioned here is that if you run spark plugs that already have the resistors built in, you should be using non-resistor caps or replace the resistor with solid metal. Some plugs like the iridiums are only available with built in resistors.
 
:hello: Good point. :notworthy:. Which means DR8EA = a resistor spark plug & D8EA is a non-resistor plug. If a plug discription has an R in it means it is a resistor plug or a stand alone R. Anyone you wrenches on bikes should already know this but for those who don't should know now. :laughing7:. IMG_5173.JPG IMG_5174.JPG IMG_5176.JPG IMG_5175.JPG
 
:hello: I just now noticed that resistor spark plugs lettering is done in blue instead of black. See the first 2 pics of post # 23.
 
How do you (if it is doable) clean the inside of the black plastic housing that the resistor resides within? I took mine apart because the secondary side wasn't showing any connection. I tested both resistors and they check good. When looking at the black plastic piece, without the resistors installed, I am getting no continuity at all. It is possible they are fried inside, but it's likely 33 years of corrosion in there. If it's best just to replace the boots, I'll go that route, but the best price I could find is $38 each at BikeBandit.
 
What I've done is cut a Q-tip in half, Chuck it in my cordless drill, and put a dab of metal polish used to clean the float bowl seats like Zephyr Pro-40 and clean the contacts inside and the ends of the resistors until the Q-tip comes out clean. You can also use electrical contact cleaner after using the metal polish compound.
 
Well I have cleaned up the resistor housing as best as I can using the above method, and I still have zero continuity through the resistor. It appears the internal conductor inside the housing has failed on both the #1 and #4. One seems to have continuity, but the resistance is like 18Mohms. It seems odd that both of them have failed in the same manner. I guess I need to replace the spark plug boots. Are the NGK 8325 boots a pretty good replacement for the stock ones? I'm worried about leaks and the spark plugs filling up with water.

edit: when I am talking about the resistance, it is the reliance through the housing assembly, not the resistor alone. The resistors all check good alone at 4.8Kohm.
 
With nothing to lose, I very firmly scrapped the bottom of the resistor spring contact with a scratch awl and found there was a very stubborn layer of corrosion there. After doing this for a few minutes I was able to clean it up and get the resulistance within limits. Now I just need to find a way to clean up the posts that stick into the plug wires. I cant get a qtip in there. Too tight. Suggestions?
 
:hello: I use a mixture of baking soda & white distilled vinegar 2 table spoons of baking soda & 8 t0 12 oz of vinegar or enough to cover the parts being cleaned. You will have to weigh down parts that float. Leave the parts in for an hour or 2. Then clean with sprayable brake parts cleaner.
 
:hello: I'd rather spend the money on new OEM boots/caps instead of aftermarket even though I've never had an issue with NGK. Refering to post #30. It is a good idea to clean up the resistor springs. :notworthy:. If they are black in color that is corrosion/carbon & heat can change the resistance value once a bike is running.
 
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Great tips. Thanks. I used the baking soda trick, and the stock boots are now consistently passing the resistance checks. The springs look very clean and had no resistance at all. I just reinstalled the coils last night at about 1am. I've got a little more work to do, but should have her running (hopefully) this weekend. I'll keep the partzilla link in mind just in cast they **** the bed.
 
:hello: Glad to help. :notworthy:. In case they crap the bed. Ya can't say the other word. :laughing7:. One other thing it is a good idea to rub dielectric grease on all the internal parts of the caps. It will pervent future problems.
 
Well as an update, I got her put back together, and fired her up. I was little concerned as the coils are measuring 21k ohms on the secondary side of each igniter. I replaced all of the spark plug wires to try and keep the resistance down. So I decided to give it a shot. She fired up pretty much straight away. Was able to keep her idling with no problem. She revved up pretty well, but it looks like I have some work to do on the throttle cables as it seems to stick a little when coming back down.

Now I have to attack the water pump. I have an oil leak right there and it is smoking when the oil hits the pipe. My guess is it's just a bad seal. I'll open her up after she cools down. I'm happy that she's at least running.

R.J. If the bearings need replacing, I may buy a pump from you if you still have some available.
 
Well I tore down my water pump this evening. The seal was hard as a rock, hence why it wasn't doing its job. I had ordered a new seal and all the replacement o-rings. It doesn't look like I'll need a new/rebuilt pump after all. The original one looks excellent with no signs of corrosion and the bearings feel excellent with no play at all. I just need a hope and a prayer to get that little bolt installed that keeps the pipe connected to the pump. That thing sucks to install.
 
:hello: When I install a water pump I swap out that 10 mm hex head bolt with a bolt that has both a hex head & phillip screwdriver slot. Then I use my spring loaded spreadable guide tool to start the bolt using the phillips slot. Also I use a magnetic 10 mm socket. I bought a set which covers 9 to 15 mm. I got the set off E-bay for $32.00. Well worth the money.
 
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