ZL 900/1000 Fan Circuit Testing Trouble-Shooting & Repair

:hello:Fan is always on + ; when I remember well I added a cable to the Y/BL-plug @ the relay, to the switch and then to frame ground.
 
:hello: I'm still not to the point of finishing this wright up. While I have the fuel tank off & waiting on carb boots I went ahead & undressed the wiring harness for the fan relay fan circuitry. First I unwrapped the connectors wiring to check for hardened & frayed wires. Then I wrapped the wires with high quality electrical tape. IMG_4137.JPG
 
:hello:Post 7 pic 4 is incorrect. Pic 4 is the oil pressure sending unit. IMG_4065.JPG Pic 1 & 2 Engine oil over temp switch 120*C/248*F. Right side of oil pan. IMG_4149.JPG IMG_4150.JPG Pic 3 oil pressure sending unit. Left side of oil pan.
 
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:hello:When unplugged oil temp switch the 97°C switch in the rad. will control the fan more early...just a suggestion and less possible faulty elements.
 
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:hello: To the men up stairs. :laughing7: Can this thread be moved to the Technical section & is it possible to make so I can go back & edit the whole thread. Thank's.
 
R.J., I moved this thread to the technical (cooling) section but discovered no one could post reply's due to lack of privileges. So I moved this back to ZL talk. One of the owners or mods have to do editing after elapsed time.
 
:hello: OK: Thank's. :notworthy: I just wanted to change my mistake of the locations of the switch/sensor under the oil pan.
 
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The wire to the 110c switch on my bike just broke where it enters the switch. Any ideas of how to fix it, or do I have to replace it? Obviously, they're no longer available from Kawasaki, but any leads on an automotive replacement?
 
The one with the red and white wire in front of the thermostat housing? You can repair the wire sometimes although I've not had any luck with that. I've probably got a used one laying around so message me if you're interested.
 
Yes, the red and white wire in front of the thermostat. I drilled out and removed the epoxy housing and tried to re-solder the wire to the probe that extends down inside. But I'm not doing something right, as the red light is staying on. I'm guessing the probe isn't making good contact deep down inside. I would appreciate the switch if you have one.
 
Smartass mode ON: the red/white wire on the thermostat leads to the 120°C switch which is an 'opener' :Smartass mode OFF :laughing7:

This whole led-alarm-water-too-hot-nervous-make-thing is senseless to me, but okay if you wanna keep it orig.
 
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:hello: I've also tried soldering the lead back on. To be honest I fell that the high temp of a soldering iron trashes the switch anyway. I have spares but I'm not sure of which ones.
 
I re-soldered it back together last night as best as I could. I put epoxy on it as I wasn't going to do any better. I just tested it on the stove and it opens up just past 200 degrees. I think I may be in business. I used a low wattage soldering iron, so that may have kept it from over heating the insides.
 
If there is a little air left to bleed, will that make the red LED come on at idle RPM? It goes away while riding, or reving the bike. I had to drain the coolant to fix an oil leak around the water pump. I bled the air once, but maybe there is more there now that I have ridden it.
 
Wow R.J. this thread is incredible! Thanks for all you know and share.
 
:hello: You are welcome. :notworthy: One thing I do not claim is to be is a mechanic. I Started wrenching on bike at 12 years old. Screwed up more things than I fixed. :laughing7:. Over the years I learned form some of the best in the field. To this day I have a note book full of advice that dates back to the 70s. I'd go to Joe Fryes Honda in Indiana PA & go into the Service Dept & pic brains. They was shocked that I did this. Back then shops was always willing to help just as 3 or 4 guys that I know today either whom I grew up with or have become friends with over the years.
 
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