It's ALIVE!!!!!!!

Yeah, I adjusted the valves already - took my time with them and went over them many times - but that doesn't mean I didn't screw up and grab the wrong guage or forget to tighten something down right - hahaha. Man, I hope that's all it is. Thanks guys. Later.
 
Yeah, I was wondering if something wasn't just sort of sticking? Anyway, couldn't wait until after work - the suspense is killing me - hahaha - ran out there and put some oil in #2 and #3 and rechecked the compression. It went up a little:

#2 went up to 160 from 140
#3 went up to 115 from 100

So I guess I'll tear the valve cover off tonight and look around, check valves again and see if I find anything off or out of whack. Later.
 
Called around, nobody has a leakdown tester I can borrow, so I'll probably just pull the valve cover off tomorrow and look around. I've seen things on the net where you can build your own but I don't have time for that right now. I thought I had built one some time ago, but have not located it yet if I did. Later.
 
If you can hook a air hose up to your adapter for the compression gauge You can listen for air escaping through the air cleaner(intake valve)Exhaust pipe(exhaust valve)crankcase vent(rings).This is not 100%,but it might give you a area to look at.Kinda like a poor mans leakdown test.
 
Ok, finally found the one I made a while back, one of those things you don't use much so it gets shoved to the back or under something - hahaha. Hopefully it will tell me something good. Later.
 
Ok, so I pulled the valve cover and timing cover off to check valves and mess with the leakdown. Got the manual back out and started looking things over - something doesn't look right. I remembered reading a post on here that Paulfun had put up about the 1000 having different bolt holes (square and round) for the cams. What was the final verdict on this? What is the proper way to set this up? I don't think mine look right? Things don't line up like the manual says they should? My exhaust and intake cams are both mounted in the round holes. Take a look at the pics below. Also, here is the thread where the different cam holes were discussed.

http://www.zl-oa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10523&highlight=square&page=2

Thanks. Later.
 

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Yes something seems to be missing, but cant quite put my finger on it?

The cams should be circle to circle on both cams for the zl
 

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Ok, so the other thread regarding the square mounting spots was just for ZX cams? The bolts on my 1000 in the pics above just don't look like they line up quite right compared to what the 900, gpz, manual shows. The exhaust almost looks like it's a tooth off - like it needs to be rotated a tooth ccw? Or intake needs to go cw, depending on which cylinder is at tdc. Later.
 
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rotate crank one revolution and see if the marks are correct now. I thought the same thing,, it was just on the wrong stroke
 
Yeah, tried that, still looks a tooth off. According to gpz manual (page 4-19) cyl#1 is at tdc of compression when the EX and IN are upside down on the cam sprockets which is where it is in the pics I posted above. In this postion it looks like the exhaust needs to go ccw one tooth. If you rotate 360 degrees, this would be for #4 tdc compression and it then appears that the intake needs to go 1 tooth cw. Then if you look at page 4-12, it shows the chain timing and how the bolts should look with the EX and IN reading right side up which would be cyl #4tdc on compression. No idea what's going on here or what I need to try next. Thanks guys. Later.
 
Yep, so when you line it up to check the cam timing and count the links you are TDC on the #4 compression stroke with all the guides and tensioner installed.
 
Would the Connie timing be any different as far as how the bolts should look and line up? Later.
 
Hmmm, ok. Chain, guide and tensioner all look like almost new. So how much damage would take place if I tear it apart and try lining up the bolts/teeth/marks like the manual shows? Later.
 
Not sure if just removing the tensioner and the upper guide will give enough slack to jump a tooth or not.
 
I'm starting to get flooded with other things unfortunately - dog is going downhill fast, work is getting scary, parts finally showed up for the coworkers 4 wheeler to work on, etc. I really wanted to at least get this thing on the road - even if she ain't too perty. So I just adjusted the valves again - by the book this time - and put most of it back together - enough so I can start it. The miss/spit/whatever is still there, maybe not quite as noticeable - If there was any improvement it was very minor. I dumped seafoam into the oil this time too. I'll just go out and keep starting it and let it idle as long as I can for a while and see if anything clears up/gets better/worse, etc. Not sure what else to do. May pull the carbs again if I get a chance and swap some of the parts and see what happens. Thanks. Later.
 
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