It's ALIVE!!!!!!!

Ok, so I'm hoping I'm done with the atv now. So started back in messing with the 1000 a little today. I started the bike twice this week and just let it run, idle and played with the throttle a little. Today I checked the compression on #3 again since I redid the valves last Sunday. Compression came up a little - it's up to 115 now. So I'm not sure if I still don't have the valves quite right or if it just needs to be ran more. I also took the carbs off today and swapped the parts out of #3 with what's in #4. I fired it up and rode it around the driveway a bit - no change - still has a miss or something so I don't think it is carb related now. I'm going to try and get to work on some water pumps soon so I can actually take it down the road at speed. Later.
 
Ok, so I put together a water pump for the 1000 and put it on - so far no leaks. Put a new water pump on the 900, then changed oil, filter and coolant so - knock on wood - it should be good to go - I hope.

Cleaned up a second set of carbs for the 1000 and swapped them today to see if it would make any difference. No change. So I'm almost dead certain it's not carb related now. I took another video - I'll post up in a minute when it's done processing on youtube. You can see what I'm talking about as far as spitting or backfiring on #3 in this video. The sound didn't turn out real good but you can see it happen and hear it just barely. Later.
 
Have you swapped boots around - looks like a leak on the vid.
 
No didn't swap the boots, might try that next. I took them off and looked them over, maybe I missed something. You can hear it in the exhaust too though. Later.
 
Looks like a leak. Check the boot real close and check the head real close. If all is well take a thin coat of gasgacinch and re-assemble and see if that fixes it
 
Checked boots again, still couldn't see anything wrong. Went ahead and swapped them, the misting is gone so I evidently just didn't get it back on good the first time. At least the misting made it easy to see that something isn't quite right. Unfortunately, the miss is still there. Guess I'll open it back up and check the valves - again - ugh - this is getting aggravating........Thanks. Later.
 
So I haven't made any headway on this 1000 yet - been busy with other stuff. "Think" I may be fairly caught back up to start messing with it again.

#3 cylinder (same cylinder missing in video) spark plug is always really black - like it's running really rich. Compression for that cylinder is now up to 120-125. Seems like it's getting better somehow? Timing still just doesn't look right to me, I'm afraid to mess with it much though. If the timing was off, wouldn't it cause more than one cylinder to sound off?

I may load the bike up and take it to my local mechanic this coming week, let him listen to it and see what he thinks. Later.
 
Ok, changed too many things to know for sure what I did, but it's running smoother now. First voyage last week on the road, just went around the country block, ran pretty decent but started acting up again after I got back. I moved the timing, played with the carb settings again, adjusted the valves and put some more discs in the supertrapps. I took it on it's second voyage today. Put on 80 miles in two different spurts. Ran pretty smooth the whole time. Just easy riding, no gunning the motor or play riding yet. I've still got some parts I'm waiting on, air filter, cables, etc. Still got a long way to go to iron out some bugs though too - Tach has been busted and is jumping around pretty good - I think there is a fix on here somewhere, etc. I'll check plugs tomorrow and hopefully I can start fine tuning it and not create anymore problems. Later.
 
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Ok, so the 1000 was finally running pretty decent but the compression never did come back up on a couple of the cylinders. So I tore it down to see if there was anything obvious - and of course there wasn't - at least to my untrained eye - hahaha. So I sent the top end off to my mechanic to be reworked. Just got the top end back - he found a few bad valves/seals/seats/etc. Everything else looked good he said. Will be able to use stock parts as far as rings, etc.

So, he recommended washing the jugs and other parts out with hot water and soap then reoiling just to be sure they were clean before reassembly. Everything else - head wise - is greased and ready for reinstall. He "dipped" everything so the paint is shot - no biggie. Recommended the standard break in once it's back together - varying rpm, frequent oil changes, etc. Said it would smoke like a freight train for a bit due to the grease around the valves, etc.

I have all the parts ready - new rings, snap rings etc. - just need to finish cleaning everything up - pistons, etc. This will get the top end back together, I'm still waiting on some parts - I'm going to go into the oil pan and at least clean everything real good before it gets fired up - so it may still be a while before it's running.

Just wanted to know if there is anything else I should do or watch out for, advice, etc, before I start the reinstall on the top end - hopefully in a day or two, weekend at the latest. Thanks. Later.
 
Jarney....Did your top end then get a complete valve job? What did it cost you to get the top end done? Just curious.

Willy
 
WillyD, yeah, he "dipped" everything for cleaning, checked everything for tolerances, replaced what needed to be replaced on valves, ground the valve seats, put in all new seals, greased and oiled everything for reinstall, got me new piston rings, and honed the cylinders. Cost was $434. Later.
 
Pulled the oil pan today just to check things out before it goes back together. After seeing some of the pics of the oil screens being all plugged up and since I know nothing of the history on this motor, thought it would be a good idea. It looks pretty clean, just a little bit of junk in there. I'm glad I did this though as if you look close, you can see part of a chain in one of the screens so I'll have to search around and see if I have a chain that is broke or if it was from years ago and a previous owner. Also found one warped o-ring/gasket that must have gotten out of whack during a previous install. Thinking about checking into some of the other oil mods while it's apart - I'll play that by ear though. Later.
 

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Pulled the oil pump and tubes today. The "I" tube has a torn oring. Looks like it has the updated or newer starter clutch. Later.
 

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There was more junk than I thought under the ring that holds this screen in place. There was also some junk under the oil pump itself. Later.
 

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Ok, so I'm an idiot - I admit it. I also need to change the title of this post from It's Alive to It's a Pain in the @#$!!!!
I was about to put the top end together this weekend. Cleaning the gasket area something caught my eye. As I looked closer, I noticed the #2 and 3 con rods had an arch to them. I double checked with Paulfun and ZLMark and sure enough, I've got 2 bent con rods. The original reason it was tore apart was low compression on #2 and 3 - now I know why. I just can't believe I wasn't smart enough to check that when it was originally tore apart. So looks like the motor will have to come all the way out now and I might as well redo everything. Looks like the 1000 won't see the road for quite a while. I'll post a pic when I get a better one taken. Later.
 
That explains some of the debris you found in the oil pan etc.
I hope you can get her fixed up soon without it costing you a packet.
 
Well there ya go, hydro lock at is best! Must have filled both center cylinders and the #3 was on the compression stroke. I cannot stress enough the importance of a clean fuel delivery and properly working petcock and carburator float valves!

All this talk of compression, leak down, and blow-by and it never dawned on any of us bent connecting rods!

This thread has been tagged for hydro lock.
 
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